Arcadia Nat'l Park and Bar Harbor Two Lane Adventure

We spent 3 nights at Mt Desert Narrows, outside of Bar Harbor.

In those 3 days we toured Arcadia National Park, Bar Harbor and the “back-side” or “quiet-side” of the island.

Before I tell you what we saw, I want to share some history. Before the Europeans arrived from across the Atlantic, the Wabanaki Indians inhabited the island. It is believed that the Wabanaki traveled to the island from their home near the Penobscot River’s headwaters. During the summer, they used the island to hunt, fish and gather berries near Somes Sound. Their complete history can be viewed at the Abbe Museum in the park and there is an expanded Abbe Museum in Bar Harbor. Many of Mt Desert Island’s towns bear the names of the first settlers, like Abraham Somes. Artists arrived and word of the island’s natural beauty spread. By the late 1800s, Bar Harbor had 30 hotels and a reputation as a summer resort. This reputation was sealed soon after, when America’s most socially prominent families … the Rockefellers, Morgans, Fords, Astors, Vanderbilts and Pulitzers … began summering in Bar Harbor. They built magnificent summer “cottages” of palatial dimensions, entertained lavishly and forever altered the rustic character of the island.

Arcadia National Park is located on the rock-bound Maine island of Mount Desert. It was first established as Sieue de Monts National Monument, by President Woodrow Wilson, it was the first national park east of the Mississippi. More importantly it was the first national park whose land, over 50,000 acres, was donated entirely by private citizens.

In Arcadia Nat’l Park we found soaring granite cliffs, sand and cobblestone beaches and everything in between. Famed for its beauty and rich wildlife, Arcadia, established in 1916, offers something of interest for everyone. Experience the glorious views at the top of Cadillac Mountain, the surf at Thunder Hole on Ocean Drive, and beautiful Sand Beach and majestic Otter Cliffs.

Driving the 27-mile long Park Loop Road is a scenic drive offering a spectacular sampling of the island’s coast and interior features. Most of the loop is one-way, with two-way traffic from Cadillac Mountain to the horse stables, including Jordan’s Pond.

The Beaver Dam Pond is exactly what it sounds like … we saw beaver mounds, but did not see any beavers!

Thunder Hole is an ever-changing natural feature which does not perform on a time table. Timing is everything here. As wind-driven tides sweep into this narrow granite channel, air becomes trapped, escaping with a thunderous bellow. The best time to hear it is at three-quarter rising tide with a rough sea. At low tide on a calm day, Thunder Hole is stubbornly silent. There are also wonderful views from Otter Cliff too.

Until we arrived in Maine, I have never heard of the Gulf of Maine. I learned it is a large gulf of the Atlantic Ocean on the east coast of North America. It is marked by Cape Cod, Massachusetts in the southwest and Cape Sable Island, Nova Scotia in the northeast. This area definitely shows why it is called 'the Rocky Coast of Maine.'

Arcadia Nat’l Park is dotted with glacier-carved ponds and lakes, Jordan Pond is perhaps the prettiest. Its waters are clear and cool. Its shores are flanked by Penobscot Mountain and Pemetic Mountain. The view that sets Jordan Pond apart lies to the north, and rising from the shore are a pair of rounded mountains, aptly named, The Bubbles. While we were taking pictures, Jack called them Double D.

A drive to Cadillac Mountain will never disappoint any visitors, with its unbeatable 360 degree views … even on a cloudy day! 

We saw a cruise ship, the American Constellation, in Bar Harbor. Standing on the summit at 1,530 foot is breathtaking and you are standing on the tallest mountain on the Atlantic coast, north of Brazil. 

Some visitors come to Cadillac Mountain at dawn to see the sun rise in one of the first places in the US. We all scrambled over the granite dome, cautiously of course!

On the back-side of the island, we saw …

Ike’s Point, was the first pull off we made. There was a sign that talked about having your park pass ready. So, we drove down this cut-off road and we quickly learned that we were heading down a boat launch! 

We backed back to the parking area and walked down. The water was calm and blue and offered amazing views of Echo Lake, Echo Lake, Echo Lake! This was one of the many times the ladies are snapping pictures and the three men are using their binoculars!

Southwest Harbor is a town known for its boat building, unique shops and working harbor. 

At Clark’s Point, we drove down the hill and parked on a bridge at low tide and walked on the docks. 

We saw the Coast Guard Station and Beal’s Lobster Pier.

In town, we parked near a small strip mall, that included a restaurant called “Chow Maine”, we walked the town. We enjoyed Sawyer’s Market, for their eclectic selection of gourmet and everyday items! Everyone enjoyed a taste of pizza from Sawyer’s Specialties. 

The public library is home to a statue titled “Sisters” … it made me smile! There is a visitor information center in the old school and we picked up some good information.

In Seawall the low tide exposes wide beaches of rocks. During our trip, it was foggy. But, on a clear day these exposed rock beaches create a dramatic foreground to Great Cranberry Island.

Bass Harbor is famous for its lighthouse. The Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse rises from the rocky southernmost tip of Mt Desert Island. It is one of the most photographed lighthouses on the East Coast. It was built in 1858, but is now fully automated and managed by the US Coast Guard.

             

Enjoyed lunch at Thurston’s Lobster Pound in Bernard, we saw the lobsters in the pre and post cooking status. 

Bernard is one of the most genuine fishing communities on the island. That statement is evident by the presence of all the lobster traps ready to to deployed!

The blooms on the island were beautiful!

Tremont is less frequented by summer visitors, therefore many miss the opportunity to see the island as it was before it became a resort destination.

At Pretty Marsh Harbor, where we (well Jackie & I) walked on the Ocean floor. Everyone else told us to keep the mud off our shoes! Driving on Cape Road was exciting … especially riding with Jack & Jackie. It was a paved road, then it became dirt … there was a grader working the road and the drive became a bit more exciting … but it became paved again and all was good!

We took the turn onto the dead end road, Beech Hill. The information we had, said we could see the mountain form this road. We hiked on a wet path for a while … Betty had us all laughing, when she said “I am not enjoying this hike!” Betty and Charlie turned around, Walter, Jack, Jackie and myself ventured a bit further … but ended up turning around when we ran into a Ranger that said “there is nothing to see on this trail.” LOL

Somesville is a quaint village founded by the island’s first settlers. It sits near the head of Somes Sound, The historic nature of the area is immediately evident, even the houses have deed restrictions to help ensure that the village retains its original character.

We took photographs on an icon curved bridge near the gardens and museum. Limit of 5 people on the bridge, so no group photo … just couples!

Bar Harbor is both a town and a village. The town occupies about 1/3 of the island. Within the town are several villages including Salisbury Cove, Hulls Cove, Town Hill and Bar Harbor. The village of Bar Harbor is generally referred to as “downtown.” It is the commercial center of the island with many shops, restaurants, lodging establishments, entertainment and the town pier.

The day we toured downtown, there was another cruise ship in port, the Maasdam F. It’s route is Quebec, Bar Harbor, Boston, Bar Harbor and Quebec.

We watched a Seagull grab a crab out of the shallow water. She continued to pick at it until she was able to enjoy her meal!

We walked on the Sandbar, naturally, it is only available during low tides. It is really more of a gravel and shell bar, than it is sand, it takes you to Bar Island. It is open for about 3 hours, twice a day, during low tide. 

If you walk all the way across, onto the island, there is another mile of trail that leads to the highest point on the island for a nice view back at the village of Bar Harbor and Frenchman Bay. We did not walk that far!

We enjoyed walking in and out of all the shops. Just like most tourist areas, the items in every shop were very similar to the shop next to them. There were a couple exceptions, they were shops that sold items made 100% in Maine.

We had seen friends take friends to a place that had huuuggge Blueberry Muffins. We found out that was Jordan’s Restaurant, so that is where we lunched! We all had something different for lunch, but between the three couples, we took home a dozen Blueberry muffins! Yum, yum, yum!

We never saw a sunrise, as this far north they come very early! I am not even thinking about waking up at 3:50 am! One day Jackie really wanted to go up to Cadillac Mountain to see the sunrise … I thought about it for a while, but then I thought better and figured we better not!

No trip is complete ... without a few funny pictures ... enjoy ours!

 

Day 4 of Travel on our Pre-Canadian Maritime Two Lane Adventure

On Wednesday morning, May 31^st, we all departed the Poland Springs Campground.

We headed back toward Highway 122 on Route 26. There was a Sunoco gas station at that intersection and the pumps were headed in the right direction! We pulled in and all filled up!

We headed north on Highway 122, this will avoid us driving back through Gray to catch Route 202 again. We picked up Route 202 just outside of Auburn.

We passed by an American Legion that really showed its patriotism. If you don’t believe me, just check out their building! It is American Legion Alden M. Gayton Post 31. I tried to reach this post’s namesake, but could only find, he was born in 1894, died in 1918 and is buried in Peare Cemetery in Greene, Maine.

Highway 202, turned to head downtown Auburn we started to follow the road,but our GPS quickly alerted us that there was a "low clearance" ahead. We had to make a couple of left turns to get back to a "safe" route for the height of Jack's rig. The route around downtown took us across the Vietnam Veteran’s Memorial Bridge was built in 1973. It crosses the Androscoggin River and Boxer Island, connecting Lewiston to Auburn.

Passed through the towns of Greene, Leeds, and Winthrop. Just south of Manchester, we found a golf cart crossing sign! I have blogged about many animal and farm related crossing signs, but don’t think I ever found a golf cart crossing sign.

In Augusta, we hit a traffic circle. Have I mentioned how much I hate traffic circles! I missed the correct exit and we started down the wrong one … too late to pull back into the circle … oooppps! There was an old supermarket being worked on, so all three of us pulled into that lot. We needed a break anyway!

We discovered Old Fort Western, which was built in 1754 and a National Historic Landmark. It is America's oldest surviving wooden fort. The Fort was built by the Kennebec Proprietors, a Boston-based company seeking to settle the lands along the Kennebec River that had been granted to the Pilgrims more than a century earlier. Built at the head of the river, Fort Western served as a fortified storehouse in support of Fort Halifax, located 17 miles north. Supplies were shipped via sloop and schooner from Boston, unloaded at Fort Western and then taken to Fort Halifax. Fort Western was never attacked directly. Private Edward Whalen, however, was captured in May, 1755, as he attempted to deliver dispatches to Fort Halifax. He spent four years in captivity, first among the Indians, then as a prisoner in France. He was exchanged in 1760. Protected behind its four-pound cannon, the garrison spent most of its time doing routine duty, including boat repair, cooking, baking, brewing, and getting wood, in addition to helping re-supply Fort Halifax. Hostilities on the Kennebec came to a virtual end in 1760 following Wolfe's capture of Quebec but the garrison at Fort Western, though reduced in strength, stayed on station until late in 1767 to help maintain an English presence on the river. Finally, when the last of the garrison was discharged, Captain Howard made arrangements to acquire the Fort's buildings and surrounding lands. Benedict Arnold used Fort Western as a staging point for his assault on Quebec in 1775 during the American Revolution. But, after 1767 no soldiers were stationed at Fort Western.

Once back on track, on Highway 202, we passed a purple house!

Highway 202 joins Route 3, entering the China Lakes Region. China Lake is a natural freshwater glacial lake. China Lake is an irregularly shaped body of water, with two true basins: the West Basin and the East Basin. China Lake has been the Kennebec area's main water supply since the early 1900s, now serving more than 40,000 people. The Kennebec Water District owns much of the lake's shoreline and is attempting to protect the lake from future problems.

Route 3 and Highway 202 separated and we stayed on Route 3. We found an ice cream stand and we all thought about our friend, Pattye! A bit further we discovered the Lake St George State Park is on the northwest shore of the beautiful Lake St George. Route 3 runs parallel and close to the lake, which was originally part of a farmstead. The centerpiece of the park is Lake St George itself. Some of the park's campsites are located right on the shoreline where a morning cup of coffee can be enjoyed while watching the sun rise over the crystal clear water. Loons are frequent visitors and their signature call can often be heard at night. The lake is 1,017 acres and boasts numerous undeveloped islands. Fishing for landlocked salmon and brook trout is a popular sport.

Outside of Belfast, you find the Belfast Curling Club. It opened officially in February, 1959 on the site which had previously been flooded for outdoor curling by a group of enthusiasts. Inspired by founder and first president, Dr. Norman E. Cobb and friends from the St. Stephen, New Brunswick Curling Club, volunteer masons, carpenters, plumbers, electricians, and laborers built the club on donated land. Before this, the original handful of "roaring game" fans traveled frequently to St. Stephen, and later carted an assortment of stones to a nearby college hockey rink for early morning ice time. In 1962, the two-sheet ice house was razed to make room for the present three-sheet clubhouse which now provides activities for more than 100 members ranging in age from 16 to 75.

We crossed a bridge over the Penobscot Bay, it was obviously low tide with a few fishing boats present. Penobscot Bay is an inlet of the Gulf of Maine and Atlantic Ocean in south central Maine. The bay originates from the mouth of Maine's Penobscot River, downriver from Belfast. Penobscot Bay has many working waterfronts. Penobscot Bay and its chief tributary, Penobscot River are named for the Penobscot Indian Nation, which has continuously inhabited the area for more than ten thousand years, fishing, hunting and shellfish gathering in and around the bay and river.

The Town of Stockton Springs is a small coastal community in Waldo County, Maine. We are located between Belfast and Bucksport on Coastal US 1. We are home to Fort Point State Park, Sandy Point Beach Park, and Stockton Harbor. We are also just south of the impressive Penobscot Narrows Bridge. We saw our first lighthouse here. In June of 1834, Congress appropriated $5,000 to enable the Secretary of the Treasury to provide a contract for building a light-house on a site at Fort Point, at the entrance of Penobscot Bay. The lighthouse, a conical tower built of undressed split granite and an accompany dwelling. The tower was topped by an octagonal iron lantern housing eight lamps with thirteen-inch reflectors that shone a fixed white light at a height of ninety-nine feet above high water. Fort Point Lighthouse went into service to guide ships hauling literally tons of potatoes and timber from the area. Between 1905 and 1907, three long wooden piers were built that turned Cape Jellison into a bustling port. A huge 600-foot-long warehouse, capable of holding 240,000 barrels or an astounding 18 million pounds of potatoes grown in Aroostook County, was situated near the wharves. A fire in 1924 destroyed the wharfs, and the port never recovered.

Fort Knox and the Penobscot Narrows Observatory are located on the west bank of the Penobscot River in Prospect. It is an area known as the Penobscot Narrows. The Fort was named for Major General Henry Knox, America's first Secretary of War, who was born in Boston but retired to Thomaston, Maine in 1796. The Fort garrisoned its first troops from 1863 to 1866. These troops were mostly volunteers undergoing training before being sent to their active posts and included members of the celebrated 20th Maine. Troops were also briefly stationed at the Fort during the Spanish American war in 1898, but never saw military action. Fort Knox is one of the best preserved fortifications on the New England seacoast. The Fort has many architectural features present only to itself, as well as a rich history behind its cannon batteries. Maine was repeatedly involved in northeast border disputes with British Canada, and the area between Castine and the rich lumber city of Bangor was invaded and occupied by the British during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. Despite the Webster-Ashburton Treaty of 1842, Fort Knox was established in 1844 to protect the Penobscot River valley against a possible future British naval incursion.

The Penobscot Narrows Bridge is a cable-stayed bridge that carries US 1 & Route 3 over the Penobscot River. The Penobscot Narrows Bridge is one of three bridges in the US constructed recently using a cradle system that carries the strands within the stays from bridge deck to bridge deck, as a continuous element, eliminating anchoring in the pylons. Each strand acts independently, allowing for removal, inspection and replacement of individual strands. The bridge was designed as an emergency replacement for the Waldo–Hancock Bridge. From conception to completion, just 42 months elapsed.

The Bucksport Veteran’s Memorial is located next to the river where Route 1 intersects Main Street in downtown Bucksport. As with most communities within the State of Maine, Bucksport has a deep respect and appreciation for their military veterans. The local American Legion Bucksport Post 93 is an active organization committed to supporting military members and their families. In 2007, Post 93 began working with the Town of Bucksport to develop a memorial that would honor all the military veterans from Bucksport that have served their country. By the summer of 2009, the Veteran’s Memorial was completed.

Driving along Route 3 was a very dreary and foggy drive. Our friend, Karen, a Mainer ... tells us that the fog breathes ... which explains why, we went from dense fog to clear!

We did pass a motel, with little cottages. Naturally, I had to snap a picture because the one on the end was purple!

Headed into Ellsworth, unique art along Route 3 right near statues representing our heritage. This is the first time we have seen a Walmart since we left the Walmart in Troy! We did not stop now, but I am sure we will be back!

Great signage to ensure we headed in the right direction! We drove onto Mt Desert Island, a quick left took us to the campground. 

Our home for the next 3 nights is Mt Desert Narrows Campground, an Encore property.