Day 63 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Tuesday 8/28/18

When in a town with a name like Coeur d’Alene … you have to research some history! The first white people to encounter the Coeur d'Alene's were French trappers and traders. The first recorded European to see the area was explorer David Thompson in 1807. French-speaking fur traders named the lake in the mid-1800s. Legend says the traders believed the local Indians to be sharp traders and they called the lake Coeur d’Alene meaning “their hearts were sharp as an awl." The nickname stuck.

Coeur d’Alene’s first year as an official city was in 1887, and only around 40 people took residence within city limits. This same year Coeur d’Alene constructed some important new buildings. Coeur d’Alene’s first church was the Fort Sherman Chapel, which still stands today and is used for historical tours.  In the back of the first chapel was Coeur d’Alene’s first school.

The cities first sawmill was also constructed in 1887 called Saginaw Mill, where the Coeur d’Alene Resort is located today. The Saginaw Mill burned down after just two years and was soon replaced by the Coeur d’Alene Mill, which also burned down after two years, and was replaced by another mill which also went up in flames.

Coeur d’Alene’s steamboat history started in 1880’s when an 85-foot sternwheeler, Amelia Wheaton, was built for Fort Sherman. At one time there was upwards of 50 steamships working the lake. When new modes of transportation arrived, some of the steamers were set afire and burned in the center of the lake on a 4th of July holiday. Today, several of them can be found at the bottom of the lake and some parts can still be seen on the surface. Including this piece at Kidd Island. Until the 1890’s Coeur d’Alene served as the railroad and steamboat transfer point for transportation between the mines in nearby Silver Valley to the smelters they fed in eastern states.

In the early 1900’s a major timber boom caused the populations to increase 16-fold in just 10-years. At the same time, excursion boats became popular. Sightseeing boats carrying as many as 1,000 people featured moonlight cruises, dining and dancing on the lake. Some of them were so popular, they resorted to towing “dance barges” behind the boats while bands played and the water glistened under the full moon. The “Idaho” made its first trip from Coeur d’Alene to Harrison in 1903, at 147-feet long it was the largest steamboat ever to move in the waters of this lake. It could accommodate 1,000 passengers plus freight. Each side wheel was over 21-feet in diameter.

Lake Coeur d’Alene is a major draw, with almost 110-miles of shoreline and crystal blue waters perfect for sailing, swimming, jet-skiing, and relaxed cruising tours. The lake is known as the “Playground of the Pacific Northwest.” Lake Coeur d’Alene is a natural lake fed by two rivers, the Coeur d’Alene River and the St. Joe River. The single outlet is the Spokane River, which flows to the west to join the Columbia River all the way to the Pacific Ocean.

We took a Coeur d’Alene Lake Cruise on a double decker climate controlled boat with ample picture windows and a full service bar, we probably did not need that part for a 9 am boat tour!

Most of the homes built here along Casco Bay were made from materials that had to be hauled across the lake by boat or barge. These homes are still only accessible by boat. You’ll notice some of the docks sport a mailbox. Lake Coeur d’Alene does have an official U.S. Postal route which delivers mail by boat six days a week during the summer months.

We saw many awesome homes on the lake, but I could find no references to any “famous” people owning them. Whomever owns them, has some serious dough … or big mortgages! We were told, by our tour guide, this is a single family home …. WOW!

This land was populated by homesteaders beginning with the Enlarged Homestead Act of 1909, and today is the location for many fine homes. Many of these lake homes have rail systems running up the hill. These are for trams that are used to transport people and materials from their homes down to the water level. It sure beats hiking up and down all those stairs.

Not sure how this truck got here, but not a bad parking job … but getting out will be a bear!

Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course is home to a lake front practice tee and the world’s only floating, movable golf green. It began with a sudden flash of inspiration – a man walking his dog, gazing out at a tugboat towing a raft of logs on Lake Coeur d’Alene. In 1991, the first ball was struck onto the floating green on the 14th, and Duane Hagadone’s vision was on its way to becoming one of the best-loved icons in golf. The most memorable challenge, one of the best-known in golf, is the famous 14th Hole, The Floating Green, a technological island marvel. 

Recognized as one of the most unique and recognizable golf holes in the world, the engineering of the first and only floating, movable golf green, allows the 22,000 ton island to move along an intricate underwater cable system to varied distances from the tee. Each day, the par 3, 14th Hole, distance changes to play anywhere from 90 yards from the ladies tee, all the way up to 220 yards from the championship tees. After the tee shot from shore, the golfers board a small boat called The Putter for a short ride to the green to putt out. Every golfer is allowed two shots to the green. If both miss, then they can drop a ball on the green to putt out. Each year there are an incredible 3 or 4 holes-in-one recorded on the green. About 24,000 balls per year miss the target and end up on the lake bottom, and are then recovered weekly by divers.

On the way back to the dock, the cruise passed Tubbs Hill, a 120-acre natural preserve. The park is named for a German immigrant, Tony Tubbs, who was Coeur d’Alene’s first justice of the peace. This is the perfect place to take a hike on trails around the hill, with great views of the lake, a swinging bridge to navigate and access to secluded beaches. You can reach the three-mile loop trail at the Tubbs Hill entrance just east of The Coeur d’Alene Resort.

In the 1960s, Coeur d’Alene hosted the world’s fastest boats with the annual Diamond Cup hydroplane races, which recently returned to town. The city also hosts the Ford Ironman Triathlon, with 2,500 competitors from around the world plunging into the lake in June to begin their arduous day of racing. The Coeur d’Alene Resort, an 18-story lakefront tower, is owned and operated by Hagadone Hospitality, with world-class accommodations in 337 rooms, three restaurants and three lounges. The tower rooms have private balconies, fireplaces, elegant furnishings, and, of course, amazing views. On the top floor are the Hagadone and Jaeger suites, named in honor of the Resort’s owners. One of the suites features a glass-bottom swimming pool and Jacuzzi tub suspended out from the 18th floor.

Before we rounded the bend and headed back to the Blackwell RV Marina docks, we watched a sea plane land! Awesome, just awesome! We watched them land the night we ate at Cedars Floating restaurant, but that was behind glass. This was out in the open to get great pictures! Making his approach.

Getting closer …..

and closer.

Touchdown ... 

Coasting in!

Long before there were bike paths and boats, the Coeur d'Alene Tribe would gather where Lake Coeur d'Alene met with the Spokane River. The area was a historical gathering place for the tribe. Meetings here were overseen by Chief Morris Antelope. Chief Morris was a strong advocate for the rights of the Coeur d'Alene Indians. To honor the tribe's legacy, the city of Coeur d'Alene erected a piece of public art to grace the area near the Centennial trail by North Idaho College. The statue was created by a local artist as well. The statue is visible from the trail as well as the river.

 The perfect weather for friends, food, fellowship and cocktails!

Our Yankee supper tonight, it was purchased by Yankee RV Tours and prepared by Charlie Ragland and Helen Coe. It was a homemade stuffed pork chop, scalloped potatoes, green beans, gravy, roll and birthday cake!

Day 62 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Monday 8/27/18

As we were staging to depart, the forest firefighters were departing their base camp ahead of us. Naturally we let all of them go first. Look at the town, on the truck I got a picture of … yes, that is Gila Hotshots. The Gila Hotshots stake claim to being the first hotshot crew in Region 3, originally established in 1968. They are based at the Negrito Fire Base, near Reserve, New Mexico.

We were traveling on US 2 west, through Columbia Falls and Whitefish. Whitefish was named one of the top 25 ski towns in the world, by National Geographic. Whitefish offers a quaint downtown with shops, food and drink, exciting nightlife, and the world-class Whitefish Mountain Resort. Both towns offered us amazing views of the mountain ranges.

Kalispell is nestled between two ski areas and not far from Glacier National Park. Kalispell boasts championship golf courses and a bustling historic downtown. The Whipps Block reflects the optimism of Kalispell’s leading citizens in the very year that the Great Northern Railway moved the railroad division point from Kalispell to Whitefish. William Carvoso organized the first bank in the area, Northwestern Bank. In 1904 he erected the Whipps Block to house his business, the Kalispell Liquor & Tobacco Company and others. Whipps became the first elected mayor of Kalispell in 1893. Called the “Czar,” he accomplished much toward the development of Kalispell during his four terms as mayor but often met with opposition. Whipps was also an active advocate of the creation of Glacier National Park.

The downtown also had unique 3-D statues on their buildings. 

One has a man hanging off of it and another has a bank robber being chased and bit by a dog.

We took the rotary around Flathead County Courthouse. It reminds me of the rotary around the courthouse in Monticello Florida. It is such a nostalgic site!

We traveled around the west side of Flathead Lake. On our trip to Glacier, we traveled up the east side. Flathead Lake is over 27 miles long, nearly 15 miles wide and 300 feet deep, plus there is nearly 185 miles of shoreline. There are multiple islands on the lake, the largest of which is Wild Horse Island. It is located along the west shore near the Big Arm. It is a 2,165-acre state park. It is only accessible by boat, but home to bighorn sheep, coyotes, deer and of course wild horses. At 2,165 acres, Wild Horse Island is the largest island in a freshwater lake west of Minnesota. Wild Horse Island has been a landmark since the Salish-Kootenai Indians were reported to have used it to pasture horses to keep them from being stolen by other tribes.

Photo Credit: Montana State Parks

On the western shore of Flathead Lake, visible only by boat, you may find some bright signs and characters called the Painted Rocks. Painted Rocks received its name from the green, yellow and orange lichens which cover the grey and black rock walls of the granite and rhyolite cliffs.

Traveling south from Kalispell on Highway 93, turn right onto Highway 28 at Elmo. Motorists have been known to hit bighorn sheep on 28, so keep an eye out. After about 30 miles, you’ll see a sign for Hot Springs. You can turn right to check out the town or continue heading south.

And the scenery changes again ... it is amazing the number of different sceneries we have seen on this trip!

I am an old soul at heart … I love the pictures people capture of old buildings and barns. Even the ones that are falling down and in total disrepair. I find them so fascinating and would love to learn their history and stories. I probably try to take hundreds of them, as we drive along … and every once in a while, they come out pretty nice! When the road meets up with Highway 200 at the small community of Plains. Turn left on 200 and head southeast along the Clark Fork River until you reach the intersection of Highway 135, where you turn right.

Montana 135, following the Clark Fork River. The brown and greens of the canyon walls and trees, mixed with the blues of the flowing water are perfect for the painter’s pallet.

Nothing beats a picture of a train over the river, with mountains and fog in the background!

Highway 135 slices through a steep canyon with picturesque views of the Clark Fork River. The fishing is good along this stretch of river, and it’s far less crowded than the waters near Missoula. Quinn’s Hot Springs is also tucked away here. Quinn’s offers soaking pools, a restaurant, bar, and lodging. This is called the Paradise to St Regis Scenic Byway, and I can understand why. The canyon dumps you out at St Regis.

At St Regis, we got onto Interstate-90 W. Not our normal choice for a route, but we are with the caravan, following the road log!

Look Out Pass is labeled as exit zero. You rarely see a mile marker or exit zero. Lookout Pass is the eastern border of northern Idaho's Silver Valley, and has the distinction of being "Exit 0" on Interstate 90 in Montana. Established 83 years ago in 1935, Lookout Pass Ski and Recreation Area is on the eastbound side of the highway, also straddling the border.

Snows in the Pacific Northwest in the winter of 1910 resulted in deadly avalanches in the Cascade and Bitterroot Mountains.  A dry summer followed, and many forest fires proved hard to contain in the region between Glacier National Park and the Cascades.  Then on August 20 and 21 strong winds arrived in the region and pushed the fires into firestorms that devastated millions of acres of forests and some towns laying in those forested areas,  the Big Blowup,  known collectively as the 1910 Fire. One of structures to survive the devastating 1910 fire was The Oasis. Shockingly, this was just one of the five brothels that operated without hindrance on Wallace's main street until 1973.

Photo Credit: TrailerGypsies

Wallace Idaho is home to the Oasis Bordello Museum. Here you can take a tour of this former bordello for a glimpse into the colorful side of Wallace’s mining past. The Oasis Bordello Museum building housed an active bordello until 1973 when the occupants hastily left town leaving personal items, furnishings, food in the cupboards, and even the groceries still sit in a grocery bag on the kitchen counter. A local business man bought the building in 1993 from the now out of business madam. It has remained as they left it and was opened as a museum. A bit off beat museum, but none the less interesting!

In Big Creek Idaho, you can visit the Sunshine Miners memorial. It is located right on the exit for historic Big Creek. A 13-foot-tall metal miner, with a glowing headlamp, memorializes those killed in the Sunshine Mine disaster of May 2, 1972. The statue stands behind 91 miniature tombstones, one for each miner who suffocated in a smoky fire at America's largest silver mine. Standing at the mouth of Big Creek Canyon, the doomed miner appears to defiantly hoists his rock drill skyward, as if trying to punch an air hole to the surface. He was sculpted by Ken Lonn, a former shift boss at the mine, and reportedly is positioned so that his headlamp casts its feeble beam through the open air toward the mine entrance, which is several miles away from the statue.

The clouds today have created unique shapes and designs in the overcast skies for us today.

Its beginning to look like fall in the Northwest … oh, my!

Photo Credit: Idaho State Parks

In Cataldo, as you approach the Mission of the Sacred Hear, you can feel why this majestic spot was chosen to celebrate and give thanks. Set gracefully on a knoll overlooking the Coeur d’Alene River, Idaho’s oldest standing building takes you back to the 1840’s, when local tribe members first heard the spiritual teachings of “Black Robes”, Jesuit Missionaries led by Father De Smet. The Coeur d’Alene Tribe and the missionaries built the mission side by side in the early 1850’s with few tools and no nails. The site is now protected as part of the Coeur d’Alene Old Mission State Park, where you can explore the Parish House and two cemeteries.

Veteran’s Memorial Centennial Bridge took us over Coeur d’Alene River and we got out first glimpse at Lake Coeur d’Alene. Again, the clouds are just dark and angry today!

We were greeted and directed by our fellow caravanners that volunteered for dawn patrol, as we arrived at Blackwell Island RV Park, our home for the next two nights.

We enjoyed a Yankee dinner at Cedars floating restaurant, just a few hundred yards from the campground.