Day 92 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Wednesday 9/26/18

Today we decided to get some exercise and walk around Durango. We learned one of the special things about Downtown Durango is the history. If you start down at Rio Grande Land, the home of the railroad that literally founded the town, then wander further up Main and take a look at the historic structures, many of which date back to Durango’s founding in the late 1880s and into the early 1900s.

One of the oldest buildings is the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Depot. Imagine stepping off the train in 1882, you would have arrived at this Denver and Rio Grande Railroad Depot, which is now a National Historic Landmark. Salesmen stayed in the less expensive hotels in this block, but the more elegant hotels were located farther away from the bustle and soot of the train station.

In the early 1900’s, the block closest to the depot was the focal point for the Italian-American community. Soot from train and smoke from smelter were obvious and frequent. Between railroad and river was called “Poverty Flat.” It was the town’s red light district, saloons, gambling, dance halls, squatters, and generally a slum.

The Historic Strater Hotel opened in 1888. Architecturally, it showcases the lavishness of the Victorian era. The building itself is an eclectic mix of Italianate, Romanesque and Renaissance architectural styles. Strater Hotel, exemplifies the period of wealth from the mines, railroad and smelter.  Once the hotel was built, it was immediately leased to H L Rice.  The partnership soured quickly and 4 years later Henry Strater built the Columbian Hotel next door on the former site of the county courthouse.  The two hotels are now one establishment. There are rumors of tunnels running from the Strater Hotel and 3rd Avenue to the red-light district.

The Ute Tribe members were welcomed at allotment time (Ute Tribe  settled in Ignacio and Southern Ute Community) and camped at the corner of 7th and Main in teepees and with their ponies. This was valued as a “tourist attraction” for those staying at the Strater Hotel.  Southern Utes and other Native American tribes were here before the Europeans settled the area. The Brunot Agreement of 1873 opened land to Utes and Ignacio and it has become their tribal headquarters.

The Stuart’s building offers the smooth, simple glazed tile storefront and large glass paned windows illustrate Durango’s “modern” Downtown in the 1930s and 1940s. The building was in fact remodeled from its original Victorian era, red brick storefront to project the image of the progressive men’s clothing store that occupied the building previously. It now houses the Old Barrel Tea Company, the owner are a family of New Mexico tea lovers.

This Romanesque sandstone building, was built in 1892 by Charles Newman. It originally housed the Smelter National Bank, from 1892-1897. The bank sign remains visible on the back side of the building. Newman owned a chain of drug stores in Silverton, Alamosa, Animas City and Chama.

This is the showpiece of the Durango & Rio Grande’s land development company. It was intended to be a model for future buildings. They tried to require property owners to build in brick and stone as they had. Unfortunately, many didn’t, resulting in numerous fires. They had to watch much of the city burn in 1889. The fire of 1889 burned 7 blocks and spread to the residential neighborhood of East 3rd Avenue.

This Romanesque style building housed the Colorado State Bank from 1892 until the bank’s failure during the silver crash of 1907. Burns National Bank operated in the building from 1910 until it’s merging with Bank of Colorado.

This is the oldest bank in southwestern Colorado, the First National Bank of Durango moved south from Animas City in 1881 and operated here from 1882 to 1980. The elaborately detailed Queen Anne brickwork building with Romanesque sandstone arched windows was built for $18,00 and replace an earlier frame building that burned in 1892.

AC Richey and Brother operated a bookstore that was later replaced by the Richey Confectionary and Stationary Store. It was a well-known local soda fountain for many years with the last remnants of the candy-making business still on the front of the store. Around 1945 marble tiles were added. In the back of the building is the marble candy making block, left behind because it was too heavy to move out of the building.

The Schneider block, built in 1889, housed the Keeley Institute, a reform group devoted to the cure of liquor, opium and tobacco habits. One of four Colorado branches, the Institute operated between 1892 and the turn of the century. By 1900, part of the building had been transformed into a dance hall which stayed in the building until the 1920’s. The corner storefront was the Palace Grocery and Meat Market from 1900 to 1920’s and continued as a grocery until late 1940’s.

Since 1981 the Olde Tymers Cafe has been bringing people together. It’s a coffee shop, a café and a bar. Who would not love that! I love the refreshed old advertising on the side.

I love murals, and we found a few … some old and some new. The old mural has been here since 1981. Tom McMurray painted the mural on the wall of the building that now is home to Jean-Pierre “Le Cafe Chic” & Wine Bar, a French eatery at Sixth Street and Main Avenue, depicting life in late 19th-century Durango. In his rendering of “Durango’s Main St.” circa 1890, horses handily outnumber the city’s few people, and most of the city’s buildings are colored brown, like the mountain they sit uneasily atop, with the sky providing a bright streak of blue. He based the mural on a black-and-white photograph that he saw hanging in the old Schulter Floral Shop in 1978.

The new is called “Local is the Way!” It is a mural at Durango Joe’s College Location. It was the first work of a grass roots group called, Local First. Their goal is through creative expression and engagement with the community, they want to educate the public about the importance of building a strong, local economy while celebrating artistic expression in a manner that explores the history and uniqueness of Durango and La Plata County.

Their second mural is still a work in progress behind Kroeger’s Ace Hardware facing Narrow Gauge Avenue. Local First is seeking business sponsors for more murals and is seeking funding for more projects. The group is also exploring establishing a state-designated Creative District in Durango that would provide recognition for Durango’s community artists, help boost arts impact to the economy, and potentially bring in state money to support local arts.

The mural going up behind Kroeger’s, is an example of how art can enrich. The murals around town begin with an expression of interest from a business to Local First. Kroeger’s employees approached Local First about an idea … to create a mural on its back-facing wall. The idea had been bouncing around for years. After a willing business is identified, a process begins to design a mural that works for the business, the space it occupies and the community at large. A team of lead artists guide the mural, but it is important to involve the community, especially youth groups, to help finish murals.

This is a mock up of the finished mural. photo credit Durango News

Working with kids on the murals provides them with their first hands-on artistic experience. The broad swaths of colors on the unfinished mural behind Kroegers are by design. They give untrained youngsters an opportunity to participate, paint brush in hand. Later, more skilled artists will begin adding details to the mural. At Kroegers, the mural will emphasize the environment and the landscape of the Southwest, and human activity will form the background.

We walked some of these streets during our visit to Durango in 2016, but I focused on different things this trip. Charlie found a new friend today! Tomorrow we are going to check out the historical homes of Durango.

Day 91 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Tuesday 9/25/18

Our first day in Durango was a time to relax and catch up on a few things.

We really needed to wash our car, as we had driven through just a little rain … but, sometimes a little rain is worse than a downpour! So, we drove around and found a self-service car wash and got our baby shiny and clean again!

We needed a few groceries and a couple items at Home Depot. We got our errands run and enjoyed the quiet serenity that is afforded us in the box canyon of the Lightner Creek Campground.

Lightner Creek Campground is in the shadows of the Twin Buttes. Twin Buttes are a pair of buttes that are side by side, just outside of Durango. They do look strikingly like twins!

As my friend Frank says, sometimes there is just not much to write about!

Day 90 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Monday 9/24/18

We departed Parachute Colorado, and as we left there was a rainbow. Rainbows bring the promise that troubles of today will come to pass, hold strong in your faith and the rainbow will bring you fresh beginnings and new prosperity. Ahhhhhhh, take a deep breath and enjoy the beauty!

We took the “back road” US Route 6 W to 45 ½ Road. There are a lot of roads in Colorado that are ½ roads … not sure why! We traveled on 6 W to De Beque, where we got gas at Kum & Go. Gas is 30 cents cheaper, just 11 miles outside of Parachute.

Then we got on 45 ½ Road for 11 miles. It offered us some small switchbacks, but a newly paved road with steep canyon walls ans unique rock formations.

Highway 65, is also known as the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway. But, first let me tell you about the Grand Mesa. It is the largest, flat-topped mountain in the world, spanning 500 square miles and rising between 5,000 feet and 11,237 feet of elevation. The top of the Grand Mesa is a layer of basalt poured by lava approximately 10 million years ago which has protected the mesa from the erosion.

The scenic byway follows Plateau Creek as it climbs the canyon’s bluff and the Grand Mesa, passing farms and ranches on the way. While Grand Mesa dominates the view, to the east, you can also see Chalk Mountain.

Continuing on the byway, you enter the Grand Mesa National Forest.

At this overlook you are greeted by one of the many scenic overlooks, this one with fabulous views of the Debeque Canyon, aspen-covered slopes, and some of Grand Mesa’s 300 lakes. The fall offers the view of the aspen leaves changing and the forest gleams like a golden treasure.

The Grand Mesa Scenic Byway winds through 63 miles of the national forest, providing beautiful views. In the winter, Grand Mesa, which is home to Powderhorn Mountain. Tucked alongside the northern edge of this beautiful Mesa, Powderhorn Mountain Resort offers breathtaking views, on over 1,600 acres of mountain terrain. It offers all levels of mountain terrain for skiing. In the summer, you can enjoy lift rides, lift-accessed mountain biking trails, and hiking.

After a couple of bends, you arrive at the Grand Mesa Visitor Center where you can learn more about the Grand Mesa through exhibits. The area is home to a unique High-Altitude Native Garden and interpretive hiking trail.

Surrounding the visitor center are several lakes and campgrounds where you can enjoy hiking, boating, and fishing.

Along the road, you will notice the environment change from lush grass into drier sagebrush.

At the Cedaredge Overlook, you can get a glimpse of the town below. Looks like it is a bit foggy, we might be getting some rain soon! From here, the road descends towards Cedaredge passing apple orchards and fruit stands. 

In Cedaredge, the Byway Welcome Center provides more information about the scenic byway we just drove. But the most interesting stop here is Pioneer Town, which explores the frontier life of early settlers with preserved and restored buildings such as a country store, old-time saloon, jail, bank and working blacksmith shop.

The scenic byway officially comes to an end here, but you can continue south on Colorado Route 65 towards Delta, enjoying the outstanding scenery on our way to CO 92 and then onto US 50.

Delta, Colorado, known as The City of Murals. Delta is the largest city in Delta County with less than 10,000 people.

But this small town boasts over 15 murals citywide.

You can't miss them and will start to see them as soon as you enter the town.

In 1986 Delta was awarded funds for an urban renewal project, part of these funds were set aside to begin the mural project.

In Montrose, stop by and visit the Ute Indian Museum. It is one of the nation’s most complete collections of the Ute people, featuring exhibits and dioramas that let visitors experience the history, culture and daily life of the early inhabitants of the Uncompahgre Valley. Located on the original homestead site of Chief Ouray, the leader of the Ute people. The museum complex includes a memorial park, Chipeta’s (his wife’s) crypt, a native plants garden, teepees, and a memorial to the Spanish conquistadors who traveled through the area in 1776.

The scenic drive known as San Juan Skyway, US 550, begins in Ridgway and passes the Ridgway State Park. Driving this scenic byway, mining towns and alpine splendor await you on this stunning journey across high mountain passes in the shadow of impressive 14,000-foot peaks. This All American Road runs through the same canyons and valleys once used by rail cars a hundred years ago to transport miners and ore to and from remote mining camps.

Heading south on US-550, the road travels along the Uncompahgre River, skirting between mountains and hills as you enter the Uncompahgre National Forest.

Ten miles from Ridgway, we passed through the town of Ouray, named after the Ute chief who inhabited this region until prospectors found riches in the mountains and drove them out with the Brunot Treaty of 1873. The region is well-known for its hot springs, including the therapeutic Ouray Hot Springs.  

Ouray is also known as the “Switzerland of America.” this alpine town is surrounded by stunning views of the snow-capped San Juan Mountains.

Continue through box canyons and see Clear Creek cascading 285-feet down through a narrow, limestone gorge.

Continuing south on US 550, the road begins to climb into the mountains through a series of switchbacks. This section of road is known as the Million Dollar Highway. Locals disagree as to whether it is named for the millions of dollars of gold, silver and other minerals extracted from these mountains, the cost of building the road, or for the spectacular views.

Along the way, we passed abandoned mines, traveled through mountain tunnels, waterfalls, gorges and jaw-dropping mountain views along this cliff-hanging road that continues to rise.

After a few roller-coaster hairpin turns, iron-rich red-orange mountain peaks and hillsides come into view, some so colorful they appear to have been painted, particularly now when the aspen’s golden leaves glow.

In a few miles, we headed over the Red Mountain Pass at 11,018 feet of elevation, which separates the Uncompahgre National Forest and the San Juan National Forest. The road from here descends 1,700 feet through valleys and dramatic views until arriving in Silverton in 10-miles.

The mining town of Silverton has many Victorian buildings registered as National Historical Sites, most older than in other towns along this route simply because it has not suffered the misfortune of fire. The reason is possibly because of its annual 300-inches of snow.

Heading further south on US 550, the road again climbs as you arrive at Molas Pass which affords a spectacular view of the mountain peaks surrounding the picturesque Molas Lake, including the West Needle Mountains and the Granadier Range. We stopped here in 2016, on a bus from Silverton, but it was mid-summer, not fall … so the sights are different!

Continuing through hilly valleys surrounded by mountain peaks, the trees along the road change from aspens, spruce and fir to Ponderosa pine.

As we came close to Durango, we could see where the "416 Fires" from earlier this summer were. There has been a lot of controversy and rumors about whether the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad started the fire.

We arrived at Lightner Creek Campground, out home for the next 4 nights.