Today
we caravanned from Gallup NM and crossed into Arizona for our one night stay in
Holbrook.
Yellowhorse
located in Arizona at the border of Arizona and New Mexico at Interstate 40.
The Yellowhorse Family actively manages the Navajo-Owned trading post on the
Navajo reservation. It all started in the 1950's from a roadside stand that the
Yellowhorse family started selling Navajo rugs and petrified wood to the
passer-by vacationers. Traveling the route 66 was an adventure in itself, and
stops were far in between. So the need to stop and stretch along with the
gnawing curiosity to meet with the Navajo family was the ingredient for success
and great memories for everyone. In the 60's, Juan and Frank Yellowhorse, tidy
up some at the newly constructed trading post, not far from the rug stand. The
addition of gas pumps, and new signs along the Route 66, were constructed.


Chief Yellowhorse Trading Post, in addition to being one of the oldest
Navajo businesses in the region, also was known for painting the dividing line
between New Mexico and Arizona right in the middle of the store and the red
cliffs that overlooked it. We could not find the dividing line, but we did find
unique stuffed animals on the cliff!
We crossed from the 47
th state, New Mexico, to the 48
th
state, Arizona. However, after much effort, on January 6, 1912 New Mexico
became the 47th state and on February 14, 1912 Arizona became the 48th state in
the Union.
In
Arizona on Route 66, is the small town of Houck. This community of a little more
than 1,000 people is called Ma’ii Tó by the Navajo, meaning Coyote Water, which
is the name of a local spring. Houck was founded by an express rider carrying
the mail between Prescott, Arizona and Fort Wingate, New Mexico. The first
route through the area was a wagon road on the south side of the Puerco River
that connected Fort Wingate, New Mexico with Fort Whipple, Arizona. This road
became the “Overland Stage Road” and was in regular use by the 1870s.

As
you drive down any Arizona highway and you’re bound to come across abandoned
sites. The dusty foundations of ghost towns and once prominent businesses are
now decaying under the hot sun. Of the many trading posts to be found along
Route 66, it’s surprising to learn that less is known about one of the most
recent than of those that ceased to exist decades ago, such as the Rattlesnake
Trading Post and Bowlins in Bluewater, New Mexico. But, just across the border
into Arizona, Fort Courage, which only finally closed a couple of years ago, is
quickly falling into disrepair and obscurity.

Fort
Courage was a booming attraction along Route 66! Built in the 1970’s to cash in
on some of that sweet F Troop money, Fort Courage is a replica fort built to
resemble the one from the classic show. F Troop was a television series that
ran from 1965-67, set in the fictional Fort Courage, an Army outpost and
neighboring town out in the wilderness of the 1860s. The bumbling troop got
into all manner of pickles and hijinks during its two seasons, before finally
going off the air in 1967. However, the show’s legacy lived on at the roadside
attraction Fort Courage, well kind of… The site of a trading post since 1924
when Joseph Grubbs opened the White Mound Trading Post, the tiny town of Houck
– originally known as Houck’s Tank after the man who founded it and, yes, his
water tank – served first one alignment of the Old Trails Highway and then
Route 66. When Route 66 was rerouted in 1933, Grubbs moved his store to where
Fort Courage now stands. The White Mound, which also acted as Houck’s post
office, finally closed in 1948.

The
replica fort, while not officially affiliated with the show, did not let this
potential legal hurdle stop them, selling official merchandise and proudly
displaying actual F Troop props. Because there was only so long that F Troop
impersonating could be considered even vaguely financially viable, there was
also a general store that sold groceries and Native American arts and crafts. History
has not been kind to Fort Courage. Opened less than fifty years ago, there
seems to be no record of even when it actually opened, let alone any details of
what is likely to become of it. Faded billboards along the interstate still
exhort the traveler to stop, but there’s no longer any genial welcome at Fort
Courage. Its single legacy seems to be in the late night reruns of F Troop when
viewers of a certain age might pause and think, ‘Didn’t we stop on the film set
in Arizona when I was a kid…?’

Also
on the trading post property were an Armco gas station and a pancake house, both
now abandoned. Next to the trading post is the abandoned Pancake House which
was originally built as a restaurant by Van de Kamp’s Holland Dutch Bakery of
Los Angeles. The company had a chain of windmill-styled bakeries around LA and
plans to extend across the country with a distinctive windmill building design.
The concrete building had sixteen sides to give the appearance of being round,
while the roof would have once supported a giant windmill, although no
photographs appear to exist of this. Van de Kamp intended to build 40 of these
quirky buildings by 1970, but never came close to that figure. The Houck
Pancake House is one of only two of the designs to survive; the other is in
Arcadia, California, where the building is now a Denny’s (and that company had
wanted to demolish it in 1999 before a local outcry forced a change of mind).
The Pancake House also housed a coffee shop and, if you believe the signs, a
Taco Bell. Personally, I would treat that with a pinch of salt and a Fort
Courage type of disregard for legalities. It’s far more likely that it was an
Ortega’s Tacos, named after Armand Ortega who ran the trading post for some
years.


We
knew we were getting closer to the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest when we
started seeing the shops with all the dinosaurs!
We are
staying at the Holbrook/Petrified Forest KOA. We arrived early, got set up and
arranged rides back to the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest.
Our
first stop was The Painted Desert. It is located on the eastern side of the
Copper State. The Painted Desert is just unbelievable. It formed over millions
of years by natural processes like wind and water erosion. It's a true badlands
desert in Arizona, and part of it even overlaps with the strange and beautiful
Petrified National Forest, which we will also visit. The Navajo and Hopi people
have lived in this region for hundreds of years, but it was Spanish
Colonialists who gave it the name we know it by today – El Desierto Pintado
(Painted Desert).

When
you enter into the Painted Desert, art comes to life. A region encompassing
more than 93,500 acres, this vast landscape features rocks in every hue – from
deep lavenders and rich grays to reds, oranges, and pinks. It’s like you’ve
been transported into a painting. A natural canvas millions of years in the
making, no one event shaped the Painted Desert. Instead, the area is evidence
of Earth’s volatility. Home to some of the nation’s most memorable formations
and features, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, floods, and sunlight, all
combined to create the Painted Desert. Deposits of clay and sandstone, stacked
in elegant layers, reflects the setting Arizona sun in an altering display of
colorful radiance. A remarkable sight that helps make Northern Arizona so
unique and picturesque.

Our
first stop was at Tawa Point, an established overlook close to the north
entrance. It afforded us our first real view of The Painted Desert. As we
pulled away, we had Charlie stop again and a ranger asked him to pull all the
way off the road. Sorry, Sweetheart! Mary and I found a trail and we started
walking it. We figured it would loop us around back to the parking area. Wrong …
we kept walking and ended up at our second stop.
The
Painted Desert Inn is a National Historic Landmark that began as a petrified
wood and native stone house built by homesteader Herbert David Lore prior to
1920. The “Stone Tree House” operated as a tourist attraction, offering food,
lodging, and tours for nearly twelve years. The National Park Service purchased
the property in 1936. Architect Lyle Bennett redesigned the inn in the Pueblo
Revival Style, and Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) workers brought the design
to life.
In
the late 1940s, the Painted Desert Inn became a Harvey House when the Fred
Harvey Company assumed management. Famed southwest architect Mary Colter played
a role in the next phase of renovations and repair. Three of six rooms at the
inn served as guestrooms for travelers until 1950 when they all became quarters
for Harvey Girls. These young ladies with strong moral character and work ethic
served customers and ultimately became American legends.
The Painted
Desert Inn is a historic Inn turned museum offers exhibits about the CCC, Fred
Harvey Company and more. In its almost 100 years overlooking the Painted
Desert, the inn has undergone many changes. The national historic landmark
functions only as a museum now, with no overnight accommodation and food
service. Displays inside highlight the building's history, Route 66, and the
Civilian Conservation Corps. There are also restored murals by Hopi artist Fred
Kabotie. Sadly, COVID stopped us from entering and seeing the history!
Every
time we stopped, we enjoyed the Painted Desert Overlooks. Each overlook is so
very different from the overlook before. A different artist and a different
canvas. Breathtaking!
A 1932
Studebaker sits where famed Route 66 once cut through the park. A rusted-out
1932 Studebaker is perhaps the most-photographed manmade feature within the
park. The remains of this classic car is part of an outdoor exhibit marking the
alignment of Route 66.
The
Mother Road was open through Petrified Forest National Park from 1926 through
1958, making it the only national park to hold this distinction. A row of
antique telephone poles traces the original route through the park, and a
vintage car-themed concrete bench monument memorializes the historic road.
Interstate
40, the modern highway that replaced the Mother Road, parallels the original
route in the distance.
The
next section of road passes through The Tepees. Named for their shapes, this
region of the Painted Desert has a lovely palette dominated by blues, rust, and
white. If you don’t like to hike, this stretch of road gives you a close-up
view of the multi-layered rock formations.
At Newspaper Rock, you can look down from the overlook to see over 650
petroglyphs, some as old as 2000 years. Hence the name, newspaper ……
You
must turn off the main road and drive a 3.5 mile loop to experience the Blue
Mesa. The prominent colors in this area of the park are blues, purples, grays,
and browns. In the Painted Desert, light is everything. Colors seem to move and
change as the sun traverses the sky. I think the shades and hues of the Blue
Mesa are my favorite, with layers and textures not unlike a Missoni design. I
wish we had time to walk the 1-mile loop around them. I would have loved to
have been up close to the bottom of these beauties!
At our next pullover on the loop, I was so engrossed in the rock
formations that I did not even notice this was a transition zone. We are moving
from The Painted Desert into the Petrified Forest … look at the Petrified wood
hiding in plain sight!
I
won't teach a lesson on the origins of the Petrified Forest nor the process of
petrification. I think it is important to know, however, that the Petrified
Forest had its beginnings in the Late Triassic Period when all of Earth's
continents were connected in a super landmass called Pangaea. Some scientists
believe the region that is now Arizona was located along the same parallels as
Costa Rica and had a tropical climate. I was surprised to learn that petrified
wood can be found in all 50 states and many locations around the world. There
is even a petrified forest in Mississippi. Who knew?

What
sets Arizona's Petrified Forest apart is that it contains the largest
concentration of petrified wood on earth. Petrified logs are increasingly becoming
the dominant feature, and the multi-colored desert is now becoming the
backdrop. The Jasper Forest – panoramic view of high concentrations of petrified
wood. The Jasper Forest overlook is a great location for a sweeping view, with
petrified logs as far as the eye can see.
The Crystal
Forest offers many petrified logs glimmering with quartz crystals along a paved
loop trail.
Crystal Forest is the perfect place to see
many intact petrified trees and logs that appear to have been cleanly cut with
chainsaws. Appearances can be deceiving.
Quartz crystals inside the logs produce clean
fractures when pressured by forces of nature. I
n the morning or late afternoon puts the sun at an angle
to best experience the sparkling colorful crystals.
We enjoyed dinner at Mesa Italiana Restaurant. All our entrees were served with Fresh Mesa House Salad & Hot Garlic Bread! Yum, yum, yum! Charlie, Jim & Mary had the Lasagna with Meat, Layered in mozzarella, ricotta and parmesan. I enjoyed the Italian sausage sautéed with onions, peppers, & black olives, served in a red wine and tomato sauce. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Italian food in a southwestern town. It was a restful evening at the campground. Another great day on our #Route66RVcaravan with #yankeeRVtours
#TwoLaneAdventures