Friday, July 6, 2018

Day 9 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Thursday 7/5/18


Our friend Carl, kept talking about the Reelfoot Lake Night Riders. I had to do some research and learned that probably no event in the region’s history, with the exception of the Civil War, polarized the population of Obion County as did the Night Rider episodes of 1908.

More than a century later, public opinion still varies greatly in regard to the character and motivation of the men and women involved in the Reelfoot violence. For seven months in 1908, masked horsemen rode roughshod over a portion of Obion County and imposed their own brand of justice with whips, shotguns and arson.

picture from The Tennessee Magazine
The Night Rider chapter was a dispute over title to Reelfoot Lake and the surrounding land. The lake was created by the cataclysmic forces of the 1811-12 earthquakes. Tthe lake and its wildlife supplemented the diets and incomes of subsistence farmers in the area. Although claims on the land existed prior to the earthquake, the local population regarded the lake as public domain. When the West Tennessee Land Company quietly purchased old claims and made plans to drain at least part of the lake and convert it to cotton production, the region’s residents reacted violently.

On the night of October 19, 1908, after several weeks of increasingly violent activities, events moved swiftly to a tragic point. Masked riders kidnapped Tennessee Land Company officers RZ Taylor and Quinton Rankin from Ward’s Hotel in Walnut Log. Rankin was murdered, but Taylor escaped into the swamp and was presumed dead. He survived by hiding under a cypress log and was found more than twenty-four hours later, wandering and disoriented.

picture from The Tennessee Magazine
Governor Malcolm Patterson personally took charge of matters and arrived in the lake region with the Tennessee National Guard. By the end of October, nearly one hundred suspects were incarcerated in a makeshift camp set up by the Guard. The suspects received very harsh treatment while in the custody of the state, and two died while awaiting trial. Eventually, six were found guilty in the murder of Quinton Rankin and sentenced to death. The Tennessee Supreme Court overturned their convictions in 1909.
Public opinion favored the plight of the Reelfoot Lake people. As a consequence, the state acquired title to the lake in 1914, ending the threat of private ownership. If you want to learn more, I recommend “Night Riders of Reelfoot Lake” by Paul Vanderwood.

We drove into Hickman, Kentucky. The City of Hickman was established in 1834 and is the county seat of Fulton County. Hickman is located in the most western part of Kentucky on the Mississippi River. It is nestled under and atop the bluffs overlooking the great Mississippi River. Mark Twain once called Hickman, "The Most Beautiful Town on the Mississippi." We found a mural of Mark Twain on the side of a building. A funny side note … the city of Hickman is in Foley County and the city of Foley is in Hickman County.

What is in Hickman? The US Coast Guard is in Hickman. When I think of the Coast Guard, I think of swift boats chasing down drug smugglers in the ocean or executing rescues in the sea between Cuba and Florida. All of these missions are important; however, there are about 20 men in Hickman, Kentucky, who are just as vital as anyone else in the Coast Guard. 

So what is the Coast Guard Doing in Kentucky? The US Coast Guard Cutter CHENA is based out of Hickman Harbor and its primary mission is to maintain a safe shipping channel on the Lower Mississippi River (from Cairo, Illinois down to River Styx Landing, Arkansas.) This allows for the transport of millions of dollars’ worth of raw materials to the heartland. In addition, they provide a safe and navigable channel for national defense forces to gain access to this region in times of emergency or heightened security. Without the men keeping the shipping channels safe, the barges that carry coal, gravel, concrete, grain and everything else that you find on a barge, could run aground in the mighty Mississippi. That would definitely put a kink in commerce around here and across the entire nation.

Carl & Edna carried us to Hickman to see the breathtaking historical mural scenes on Clinton Street, in downtown Hickman. 

A total of 79 murals cover the floodwall depicting memorable moments from this little river town. It's sad that there is not much else in this part of town, but the murals!




Over the course of about three years, people have watched as a Lake County Tennessee artist, Karon Griffin, turned the once blank floodwall into colorful, one-of-a-kind paintings worthy of high praise. These murals certainly are drawing people to the area. I am told Karon paints all of these out of the kindness of heart.



Hickman’s downtown park is the perfect place to sit and view the floodwall murals that now decorate it. They share the historical value to the river town perched on the bluff along the mighty Mississippi River.

When we visited, they were cleaning up from the 4th of July festivities and these over-sized portraits, were the backdrop!






I am told that it takes about 12 hours each to paint each mural. They are rendered from photographs or drawings that people submitted. Sponsors of the murals choose the scene they wanted on their mural space as long as it had historical relevance to Hickman and the people who reside here or once made a life along the river. 




Some of Griffin’s favorite ones to paint include Hickman Hardware, the LaClede Hotel, Cemetery Arch and the USS Taylor. Our friend, Edna knows the artist, personally. It made viewing these murals even more special!

To the right is a picture of the LaClede Hotel with the brick horseshoe entry way, then we turned around and we could see the actual historic building. I can picture people streaming in from the paddleboats to stay here.












We visited the Columbus-Belmont State Park, a place where our framily from Tennessee has often camped! One stop in the camping area, we can see why it is one of their favorites. The views are breathtaking!





At the park we got a glimpse of our 2020 Yankee RV caravan along the Great River Road. Oh, the places we will see!











There is a great deal of history in this State Park. Confederate General Leonidas Polk fortified the area now occupied by the park beginning September 3, 1861. The fort at Columbus was built upon a bluff along the "cutside" of the river. The fort was christened Fort DeRussey, after an engineer supervising construction of fortifications, but Polk referred it as the "Gibraltar of the West". 

He had equipped it with a massive chain that was stretched across the Mississippi to Belmont, Missouri, to block the passage of Union gunboats and supply vessels to and from Southern destinations in the western theaters of the war. Equipped also with 143 cannons, Columbus was the Northern-most Confederate base along the Mississippi, protecting Memphis, Vicksburg, and other key Southern holdings.  




Paducah was founded in 1827 by William Clark of Lewis & Clark fame. Its rich history can be traced to its strategic location at the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers. There are five life size bronze sculptures celebrating the Lewis & Clark Expedition in historic downtown Paducah.




From the Civil War to civil rights, Paducah's narrative is intricately connected to America's history. Paducah's history is reflected and preserved in its architecture and historic attractions, including the 1905 Market House, Market House Museum and "Wall to Wall" Murals.



Robert Dafford, one of America's most prolific muralists, from Lafayette, Louisiana and his mural team has captured Paducah's rich history in life-sized paintings on the river city's floodwall. 






These panoramic "Portraits from Paducah's Past" overlook the convergence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers and illustrate Paducah's historical significant events.




There are other landmarks, museums and architecture that can be viewed to understand Paducah's story. Tours and trails connect Paducah's cultural heritage to the greater American story by way of the US Grant Trail, Lewis & Clark Eastern Legacy and local Quilt Block Trail. Our friend Kathy, is an avid quilter and has followed the Quilt Block Trail.

Last summer, we learned all about UNESCO sites. Today we learned that Paducah is a designated UNESCO Creative City anchored by the National Quilt Museum and a thriving fiber arts community. The United Nations Educational, Scientific & Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Paducah, Kentucky, the world’s seventh City of Crafts & Folk Art in November 2013 for the City’s important role in the connectivity of cultures through creativity. From the colorful revitalization of the Lower Town Arts District to the vibrant streets of 19th century architecture in Historic Downtown, Paducah invites visitors to immerse themselves in rich American heritage and distinctively creative culture - and find your inspiration in Paducah!

Can you imagine traveling from port to port on a paddle boat? Traveling on America's majestic inland rivers allows passengers a unique mode of transportation to discover America in much the same manner as the original steamboat travelers. We were lucky enough to see a paddleboat in the port of Paducah! Paducah's riverfront is a port of call for the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, Mississippi Queen, RiverBarge Explorer, American Queen steamboats and others. This is only port that's located where four major eastern rivers converge in America's heartland.





It was an awesome day with friends, seeing new sights and learning more about this great country!

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