Wednesday, October 17, 2018

Day 111 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Monday 10/15/18


We departed the Texarkana KOA on US 93 south, working our way back onto US 82 East. It is another dreary rainy morning to travel.

Texas High School had the biggest American and Texas flags I have ever seen at a High School. At Texas High School, students are academically enriched through a wide array of more than 425 course offerings presenting a broad range of choices to meet the interests and abilities of students. Featuring The Ross Perot STEM Academy, students focus on science, technology, engineering and math course content that is integrated within all core subject areas. The curriculum is innovative and college-focused with instruction on inquiry, problem-solving, decision making, discovery and project-based learning.

We crossed into Arkansas by crossing State Line Ave. State Line Ave is what separates Texas and Arkansas. As we crossed State Line Avenue, there was a War Memorial in the center median. Five flagpoles fly the United States flag, the POW/MIA flag, the Arkansas flag, the Louisiana flag, the Oklahoma flag, and the Texas flag. In early 1983, some of our city's leaders in Texarkana came up with the idea to honor veterans from the Korean and Vietnam Wars from the Four States Area immediately surrounding Texarkana. Because of different reasons, they floundered with this idea for almost four years, before letting it die a slow death. In April 1987, Vietnam Veterans of America chapter #278, approached these leaders and asked if they could take over where they had left off. After several months of largely unsuccessful fundraising events, they decided we needed to show the area they meant to build this memorial. Way short of the fundraising goal, they held the groundbreaking ceremony on July 25, 1988. It worked - funds and material donations started coming in. A local government contractor set the ball in motion with a donation of $5,000. After several months of hot, hard work, shedding blood, sweat, and tears, it came together. Even though they said it could not be done, on November 12, 1988, they dedicated the Korean/Vietnam Memorial in Texarkana.

Magnolia is home to Southern Arkansas University Campus. Southern Arkansas University is a public university. It was founded in 1909 as the Third District Agricultural School (TDAS). The school was later elevated to a junior college, Magnolia A&M, in 1925, and a four-year college, Southern State College, in 1951. Renamed Southern Arkansas University in 1976, the University has grown to host over 4,000 students, serving as an educational cornerstone of the Magnolia community and Southwest Arkansas.

The Farmers Bank and Trust Reception Center and the Story Arena are unique components of Southern Arkansas University. The Story Arena is a multipurpose, covered arena located on US 82, west of the Mulerider Stables. The facility is a 78,000 square foot covered rodeo-style arena with a dirt floor and seating for approximately 1,400. The Farmers Bank and Trust is the 7,500 square foot reception area that sits in front of the arena.

There was a huuuuuge Tuscan Style Mansion outside of Magnolia on US 82. I could not find out anything about the home or the owner, but it was an awesome looking home! Too big for us … you have to clean all those rooms!

The welcome sign for El Dorado, claims it is Arkansas original Boomtown. El Dorado is Spanish for the gilded one. Matthew F. Rainey became the first resident of El Dorado by accident. Rainey’s wagon broke down there in 1843, and being unable to get replacement parts, he held a sale of his possessions. The sale went so well that he bought more goods and opened a store. It is not known if Rainey was responsible for naming his new home in recognition of his good fortune.

We don’t know her story either …. But, we saw this lady walking her mule along the side of US 82 on the edge of El Dorado, Arkansas.

The town of Crossett was named after Edward S. Crossett, a leading entrepreneur in the lumber industry's emergence in Arkansas. In May 1899, Crossett joined with three partners to form the Crossett Lumber Company, which then sought to build a lumber mill in the town of Hamburg. Displeased with the reception the proposed mill was receiving there, the company selected a site in the forest about 12 miles southeast of Hamburg, where Crossett was born as a tent city constructing the company's mill. Lumber from initial milling operations was used to build a permanent mill, company offices and employee housing. Crossett remained a classic "mill town" into the mid-1940s with Crossett Lumber owning all the town's homes and businesses until 1946. Though some early lumber towns were abandoned when the supply of harvestable trees was exhausted, Crossett's future was secured through improved forest management practices and through the manufacture of diverse forest-related products, including wood alcohol, turpentine, chemicals needed by soap and paint manufacturers, charcoal, food board and flakeboard.

Ouachita River comes from the Ouachita Mountains of west-central Arkansas. It flows in a generally southeasterly direction to join the Red River in Louisiana after flowing for over 600 miles. The Ouachita has been a navigation route since the late 18th century. Six locks and dams were built on the river prior to 1924. There are three multipurpose dams (hydropower, flood control, recreational facilities) on the upper Ouachita within the Ouachita Mountains: Blakely Mountain and Carpenter dams near Hot Springs National Park, impounding Lakes Ouachita and Hamilton, and Remmel Dam, impounding Lake Catherine.

In 2011, Hamburg was designated a Preserve America Community. The town was created in 1849. Two of the first public buildings were built the next year, the courthouse and the county jail. During the Civil War, the town provided troops to the Confederacy and several companies of the Third Arkansas Infantry that fought with the Army of Northern Virginia, commanded by Hamburg lawyer Van H. Manning. The town escaped military action during the war, though Union troops briefly occupied it during Reconstruction. The city’s economy was divided among agriculture and forestry due to the town’s geographic location. Immediately east and west are prairie regions dedicated to rice and soybean culture. 

A few miles east, cotton reigns in the Mississippi Delta. On the north and the south, timber is plentiful. Through the early 1900s, agriculture dominated though lumber production became important in later years. After the Depression, social shifts occurred when farmers gave up attempts to live off their land. Many left the region or went to work in sawmills or paper mills. These days, the downtown square, with its gazebo, now serves as home-base to the annual Armadillo Festival, held the first weekend in May since 1970.

I took this picture and loved the reflection. I am calling it the “Arkansas Bayou.”

There are many Cat Fish Farms on Hwy 82 near Lake Village. I learned they feed the fish a soybean grain mixture to stop them from seeking food elsewhere in the ponds. Many politicians and entrepreneurs hoped catfish in the Mississippi Delta could become what chicken is in the Ozarks. That was before Vietnamese and Chinese fish flooded the American market. Today there are about a third the number of catfish farms there were in 2000, and they are making about half as much money. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, in 1998, 156 Arkansas catfish farms produced sales valued at more than $55 million. In 2013, 49 farms made more than $28 million.

Lake Village is located along the Great River Road National Scenic Byway and lies on the "C" shaped curving shore of picturesque Lake Chicot, a 20-mile long abandoned channel of the Mississippi River that is Arkansas's largest natural lake. Lake Chicot State Park offers cabins, campgrounds, a marina and other recreational assets. The downtown Jack R Rhodes Lakefront Park provides a community swimming area, walking path, small amphitheater, boat ramp and picnic pavilions.

Just before the Arkansas and Mississippi border, we crossed over the Mississippi River. The Mississippi River is one of the world’s major river systems in size and habitat. It is also one of the world's most important commercial waterways and one of North America's great migration routes for both birds and fishes. Native Americans lived along its banks and used the river for sustenance and transportation. Early European explorers used the Mississippi to explore the interior and the northern reaches of what was to become the US. Fur traders plied their trade on the river and soldiers of several nations garrisoned troops at strategic points, at various times, along the river when the area was still on the frontier. White settlers from Europe and the US arrived on steamboats displacing the Native Americans of their lands and converting the landscape into farms and cities.

We crossed from Arkansas to Mississippi. The Mississippi welcome sign boasts they are the “birthplace of America’s Music.” The University of Mississippi Blues Archive contains the world’s largest collection of blues music. The Mississippi Delta is the birthplace of Blues music, the only music recognized as truly original to America. The Mississippi Blues Trail, a virtual trail with markers throughout the state and beyond.

In Greenville Mississippi, we came across a guy walking that has lots of stuff. I am never going to assume someone is homeless, but he sure looks like he was down on his luck. Or he was just a serious collector of stuff. He had so much stuff, he would push one cart forward, then go back and get the second cart and push that one forward. It seems like a lot of work!

Leland is most noted for being the boyhood home of Jim Henson, creator of the Muppets. Along Highway 82 as you enter Leland you will find the Jim Henson Delta Boyhood Exhibit, made possible through a gift from the Henson Family. The Museum houses many artifacts and memorabilia from Henson's early creative years, and is a must-see for any Kermit enthusiast. The museum includes a real Kermit the Frog in a display case as well as an impressive Muppets collection. There's a kid play area with toys and puzzles and enough good museum items to impress adults. We were going to stop, but could not find a place to pull the RV and car off the road.

Indianola, Mississippi has had a number of names. It was first called Indian Bayou and then in quick succession became Eureka, Belengate, and then Indianola. Some people think that the name was from an Indian princess named Ola. But no matter how many names this town has had, Indianola is known around the world as one of the most important stops on Mississippi’s famous Blues Trail. In the 1880s, Indianola was a sawmill town, but it soon developed as a farming community. Agri-economy is still a big business, and the surrounding area produces cotton, soybeans, corn, rice, and plenty of catfish. It is located almost in the center of the Delta, midway between the Mississippi River and the rolling hill country, and is intersected by Highways 82 and 49, making it an important crossroads town.

The Moorhead Mississippi welcome sign boasts “Where the Southern Crosses the Yellow Dog.” Just what does that mean? WC Handy, "The Father of the Blues," immortalized the crossing of the Southern Railway and the Yazoo Delta (aka the "Yellow Dog") Railroad at Moorhead in his 1914 song "Yellow Dog Rag," better known under its later title, "Yellow Dog Blues." Handy wrote that he first heard the line "Goin' where the Southern cross the Dog" sung by a guitarist at the Tutwiler train station. Moorhead became a hub not only of rail transportation but of blues activity in local juke joints.

This past April, Mississippi Governor Phil Bryant signed Senate Bill 2458 that renamed a portion of US Highway 82 in Leflore County, which ran through the crash site, YANKY 72 Memorial Highway.

One year ago, a horror unfolded in a Mississippi Delta soybean field, when an East Coast Marine Corps Reserve KC−130T on its way to California went down. Fifteen Marines and one Navy corpsman perished that fateful day ― July 10, 2017. Six miles from that crash site, in Itta Bena, Mississippi, there is a monument to the victims. The “Yanky 72” memorial is named after the aircraft’s call sign. Clifton Addison, a Marine Corps League member and memorial committee chairman who led an effort that raised more than $100,000 for the memorial. Each man had a story. Some were fathers, brothers, husbands, friends – but each one was a proud member of our US Armed Services. Seven of the troops were with Marine Corps Forces Special Operations Command 2d Raider Battalion. They were traveling for pre-deployment training in Arizona. The rest belonged to the reserve unit Marine Aerial Refueling Squadron 452 out of Newburgh, New York.

Entering Greenwood Mississippi, their welcome sign explains they are the Cotton Capitol of the World. Is that possible? The wealth of the antebellum South was based on growing “white gold,” and Greenwood prospered into the Cotton Capital of the World because of its location. In the heart of the Delta and a high point on the Yazoo River, Greenwood was a prime shipping point to connect with the Mississippi River ports of Vicksburg, New Orleans, and St. Louis. Today, Greenwood houses the second largest U.S. cotton exchange, with about one fifth of the North America’s crop warehoused and sold here.

There was a bunch of ivy growing over everything along both sides of Hwy 82. It reminds me of the kudzu ivy that grows in Georgia! It’s monstrous green forms climbing telephone poles and trees on the edges of the roads. It was introduced from Asia in the late 19th century as a garden novelty, but not widely planted until the 1930s, kudzu is now America’s most infamous weed.

Just off the Winona exit on I-55 is a large cross. There is no associated church that is visible from either I-55 or Hwy 82. This is a cross without a church. We have seen large crosses before, but they were usually associated with a church, this cross is next to a Holiday Inn Express.

This was our longest day … there are just no campgrounds along this section of Hwy 82. We arrived at the Starkville KOA, it is on a lake, but the lake low, but we did capture an awesome sunset!

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