On Wednesday 9/10, we departed Crystal Isles in Crystal River. We drove north on US 19/98. In the village of Inglis, near the highway’s intersection with the Withlacoochee River, I saw the sign for this road, Follow That Dream Parkway.
It is the local name for Florida SR 40, which runs through Yankeetown to the Gulf of Mexico. It is named after the 1962 Elvis Presley movie 'Follow That Dream.' Yes, Elvis was there filming the movie, which was one of his most successful movies. The success of the movie put Yankeetown on the map forever. It was filmed in the area in 1961, with key scenes shot at Bird Creek Bridge.
We continued on US 19 & 98, it is a great road to travel on, you pass through towns occasionally, but the road is good and the speed limit is mostly 65.
Chiefland is a very unique southern community located in North Central Florida. Community standards are set high in this family oriented society. Chiefland calls itself the "Gem of the Suwannee Valley.” Chiefland's first mural pays homage to watermelons! Local entrepreneur McQueen imagined a watermelon-themed mural for their location on South Main St., embracing the renowned Watermelon Festival, for which Chiefland is known for. She hired a local artist, Rozie Humphries, to paint the mural. In 2023, McQueen, along with her husband, John, and daughter, Bailee, painted a second Chiefland mural themselves. The mural welcomes visitors to Chiefland with a vibrant sunrise and message from Matthew 5:14, “Be the Light.” McQueen sees a bright future, a renaissance, for the South end of Chiefland.
In Fanning Springs, we crossed over the Suwannee River. It is a wild blackwater river, about 246 miles long. The Suwannee River is the site of the prehistoric Suwanee Straits which separated peninsular Florida from the panhandle. What is a blackwater river? It is a river with a deep, slow-moving channel flowing through forested swamps or wetlands.
We traveled on US 19/98 from Fanning Springs to Cross City. Cross City is part of Dixie County. It is probably the most remote, sparsely populated county in Florida. Cross City, with a population of less than 2,000 people, is the largest town in the county. On the northern side of the city is Putnam Lodge. The historic Putnam Lodge was built in 1927-28 by the Putnam Lumber Company, the Putnam Hotel is part of a bygone era in Florida’s forestry history. The lobby and the dining room of the 36-room lodge were decorated exclusively with the still preserved, artfully stenciled “pecky cypress,” a now virtually extinct lumber product. In its day, the Putnam Lumber Company, founded by William O’Brien, a timber magnate of Irish descent, and associates including E. B. Putnam employed hundreds at its two state-of-the-art sawmills in Shamrock. The mills annually produced and shipped worldwide millions of feet of “deep swamp tidewater cypress” and “dense Florida longleaf yellow pine” lumber, products that are now rare because the old growth trees are gone.
Seeing this painted fiberglass horse on the side of the road in Perry Florida, reminded me of the "Horses on Parade" in Rochester NY. It was conceived by Dixon Schwabl, a local advertising and public relations firm and promoted by High Falls Brewing Co. The promotion was modeled after those in other cities, like Chicago's Cows on Parade and Boston's Cavalcade of Cod. Organizers admitted the idea sounded corny but predicted the response would be incredible. They were right. The event placed fiberglass horses adorned by artists throughout the Rochester area in the spring and summer of 2001 as a way to raise money for local charities. People were enthralled and fascinated by the quirky works, with many heading out on local road trips and scavenger hunts to check out as many of the creations as they could see. The horses showcased the work of local artists, captivated the Rochester community and then helped rally stunned residents after the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001.
We turned onto US 98 and hugged the coastline. US 98 is part of the Big Bend Scenic Byway. Heading toward Apalachicola, this scenic drive offers so much to the average traveler, with wildlife, waterways, and woods. These areas are inhabited by birds, butterflies, animals and wildflowers. If you are out for a Sunday drive and taking your time. You can trace the footsteps of the Apalachee and the Creek, Spanish Conquistadors, British and American troops, pioneers, cotton and timber barons, and Hollywood producers by following the Byway to historic markers, interpretive displays, parks, museums, forts, depots, lighthouses and historic buildings. Experience the diverse scenery, small towns, farms and rural countryside that is Old Florida. I think it’s one of the most beautiful Florida scenic drives around!
We turned north-west near St Marks National Wildlife Refuge onto FL 267. We took that all the way to US 90, which takes us right into Chattahoochee Florida.
We arrived at the East Bank COE campground on Lake Seminole. Lake Seminole is a 37,500-acre reservoir located at the juncture of the Florida, Georgia, and Alabama state lines.
It was formed by closure of Jim Woodruff Dam at the confluence of the Chattahoochee and Flint rivers near the town of Chattahoochee, FL. The lake and its facilities are maintained by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and is used for navigation, hydroelectric production, and recreation. Much of the reservoir is flooded timber. Construction of this multi-purpose project began in 1947 and was completed in 1957.
We enjoyed the cooler morning today, Thursday 9/11, by having coffee outside before the sun got too high in the sky.
So, we decided to drive around the area, seeking some local adventure. We took Booster Club Road around the lake for a bit and we found River Junction Park, a COE facility. River Junction Campground on Lake Seminole has 11 sites with 50 amp electric and water.
The park includes a boat launch. But, the interesting thing is River Junction is not listed on the recreation.gov website. There was a "fee payment" machine there, but the gates to the campsites were locked. But there were anglers with boats at the launch!
We saw a blimp near Chattahoochee Florida. We don't know where it came from or where it was going. But, it was cool!
Florida State Hospital is in Chattahoochee Florida and it has a rich history, the hospital's current Administration Building is on the National Register of Historic Places. The site of the hospital was first used as a Federal Arsenal, built by the US Army as an arms depot during the Second Seminole Indian War. Reportedly contracted by the United States Government, William H. Face of Pennsylvania was hired to finish carpentry on the headquarters arsenal. Construction was begun in 1832 with an appropriation of $20,000 and completed in 1839, following the war, at a total cost of $226,932.50. The original compound consisted of nine buildings in a 400 X 400 quadrangle and four out-buildings.
Florida State Hospital is a hospital and psychiatric hospital. Established in 1876, it was Florida's only state mental institution until 1947. The facility currently has a capacity for 959 individuals, of which 469 are included in the Forensic Service. The Forensic Service has a capacity for 353 males and 116 females. Up to an additional 245 individuals with forensic commitments may reside within the civil part of the hospital. These are individuals who do not require the security of a forensic setting.
Chattahoochee Heritage Park & Mural is located in downtown Chattahoochee, the park contains a Norfolk Southern Railroad caboose, fountain, and a river heritage mural painted by Von Tipton that features the John W. Callahan steamboat.
Our drive this morning took us through the small towns of Sneads, Greenwood, and Grand Ridge, before we reached Marietta, Florida. In Marietta there is a cool "round house." The Historic Russ House was built in the 1890s and significantly remodeled in 1910. One of the most beautiful Classical Revival/Queen Anne homes in America, it is an impressive landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Said to be haunted, it has been the focus of a number of paranormal investigations and is rumored to have several ghosts. I’ll pass on the guided ghost tour!
We turned north onto US 231 and in Campbellton Florida, we turned east on Route 2. It is here that I spotted Southern Fields Brewery. Too bad it is so early in the morning to stop! It is a family-owned brewery. The property was a 120-year-old restored bank building and new building addition. The founder, Brian Walker and his family, have roots that go deep into the community. The family harvested and milled their own wood fallen by Hurricane Michael creating the interior walls. The wood for the bar is made out of 325 plus year old wood. All the tables in the tasting room are made from reclaimed wood from a loft originally in the bank building. Live music on the weekends and an onsite food truck will keep patrons coming back and staying for food, fun, and good times.
We passed acres upon acres of cotton fields. The cotton harvest can begin as early as mid-September, and continue through early December, depending on the weather conditions and whether planting was done early or late. Cotton can be picked after the cotton plants drop their leaves and the boles open fully. The plants we see, look like they are getting close … but we will need to ask an expert, like our friend Pattye!
After the Cotton fields, we came to Peanut fields. Peanuts are not nuts—they’re legumes, like beans. They grow underground and act like ground cover on farms. Farmers can’t grow peanuts on the same land year after year, though, because they take so many nutrients from the soil. That’s why peanuts are rotated with crops like corn or cotton. Peanut farming in Florida has a long history. In existence for over 100 years in our state, it solidified its place as a Florida crop in 1933 during the New Deal, when the federal government set up quotas for different crops. While Georgia got the bigger share of peanut farming benefits, Florida built its own strong peanut industry. Today, Florida has about 600 peanut farmers. Farms are much larger than they used to be, and Florida’s sandy soil and afternoon rain showers make it a perfect place to grow peanuts.
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We crossed the Neals Landing Bridge across the Chattahoochee River and came back into Georgia. The original Neals Landing Bridge was a Suspension Bridge. The original Neals Landing bridge was condemned in 1953 because of a sinking foundation. Remnants of that bridge are still visible south of the current bridge.
Once back in Georgia, we started to see Pecan Orchards. Although the pecan has a long history in North America, Georgia farmers were relative latecomers in realizing the benefits of this tree nut. In the 1920s Georgia was producing 2.5 million pounds of pecans. By the 1950s, however, Georgia had become the country’s leading producer of pecans. As of 2012 Georgia pecan orchards ranged in size from just a few trees to several thousand acres, with more than 109,000 acres bearing the tree nut.
Georgia is also fortunate to have an early harvest date compared to other pecan-producing areas, which often results in good prices for Georgia growers. The state produced about 45 million pounds in 2004, and 76 million pounds in 2014 with a value of the total national crop about $517 million. A pecan tree can take anywhere from 4-15 years to produce nuts, depending on whether it's a grafted variety or a non-grafted seedling, and the quality of care and environmental conditions it receives. Grafted trees often start producing sooner, sometimes as early as 4-6 years, while non-grafted seedlings can take much longer, potentially 10-15 years or even more.
Willis Park is the heart of downtown and is lined with boutiques, restaurants, a brewery, and antique shops. It is a charming garden style park complete with a Victorian gazebo and fountain. In the center of the park is a confederate monument "The Bainbridge Volunteers." The volunteers assembled here in March 1861 and entered service under the command of Captain John W. Evans as Company G, 1st Georgia Regiment. The monument was erected 1936 by the Works Progress Administration and the United Daughters of the Confederacy.
Our main reason for being in downtown Bainbridge was to stop at the only craft brewery we could find. Although, it is 28 miles from the campground! Southern Philosophy Brewery has been a long time dream of the founders who’s affection for creating beer drove them to pursue their passion full time.
The brewery is situated in a building built in the 1870’s. It has been fully restored to create an atmosphere that keeps the tradition of the old southern feel combined with the modern comfort. They are a brewpub-type brewery, producing 3 to 10 barrel batches at a time which allows them to be creative and continuously offer new tastes, styles and fresh beer.
The taproom bar also serves craft cocktails, cider, wine and growlers of beer to go. Their food consists of light fare of wood-fired pizzas, salads and charcuterie. They partner with local farmers, striving to include quality ingredients from Georgia and regional areas.
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