Happy Father’s Day, it is Sunday June 18, 2017. It is
the day we visit L’Anse aux Meadows. The L'Anse aux Meadows is a National
Historic Site, where the Vikings established the first European settlement in
North America over 1,000 years ago.
On our way to the site, we saw another Moose ….. It
was in the same vicinity to a Moose we spotted last night. I am wondering if it
is the same Moose? The one we saw this morning has a distinct mark on his back,
but we cannot see that side of the Moose we photographed last night.
The first Europeans were the Vikings and their
settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows is one of the most researched sites in North
America. The Norse era from 90-1066 AD began with the landing of Leif Ericson
from Greenland. Imagine a summer day, around 1,000 years ago, when a Norse
expedition from Greenland landed on Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula.
Following the coast around the North Atlantic, they had arrived at a strategic
location, within sight of Labrador, near the entrance to the Strait of Belle
Isle.
It was the year 985 AD and merchant Bjarni
Herjolfsson has just set sail from Iceland towards Greenland to visit his
father. A storm gathers, blowing his ship off-course to the south, landing him
on a richly forested land. But it’s late summer, he doesn’t want to winter in
this new place and so he sets sail once again for Greenland.
A few years later, Herjolfsson, sells his ships to
Leif Ericson, the son of Erik the Red, who sets off west to see what he can
find. In particular he’s looking for this land of forests as described by
Herjolfsson. It’s important, as wood in Greenland is in short supply and the
settlers need it for building their ships and tools. He finds it and it becomes
Vinland.
The idea is to form a new settlement, but
relationships with the aboriginal people already in the area are less than
civil. There is often bloodshed as the Vikings raid nearby villages and kill
whoever fails to escape into the woods. Despite the hostilities, furs, cloth,
and other goods are traded between the Vikings and some of the native people
and when the fighting quiets down, the settlers build sod houses. It’s a rich
area, there are wild berries, fish, plenty of wood, green grass all year round
for their cattle to graze on. But, after a few years things sour, the
settlement is abandoned and the Vikings head back to Iceland.
A later journey in 1008 sees Thorfin Karlsefni
bringing about 60 people to Vinland. They’ve also brought cattle and sheep from
Europe and trade furs with the aboriginal people. But eventually they too set
sail, leaving behind the remains of their huts. Over time those remains are
covered with snow and buffeted be relentless Atlantic winds. Grass grows over
the foundations, other populations move in and the settlements are lost to
time.
Nearly 1000 years later, during the 1920s, Newfoundland
author WA Munn in his book The Wineland Voyages suggested the L'Anse aux
Meadows area might be the Vinland of the Norse Sagas.
In 1960, Norwegian historian Helge Ingstad, who had
been searching for Vinland of the Norse sagas for years, visited northern
Newfoundland and met L'Anse aux Meadows fisherman George Decker who showed him
what residents thought was an ancient aboriginal camp. Helge and his wife,
archaeologist Anne Stine Ingstad, excavated the site and found the remnants of
Viking sod huts. Subsequent excavations by the Ingstads and Parks Canada
uncovered artifacts that proved conclusively the Vikings had established a
settlement in North America five centuries before the voyages of Christopher
Columbus, John Cabot and other 15th-century explorers.
L'Anse aux Meadows was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1978. The Interpretation Centre tells the story of these
hearty adventurers who braved the North Atlantic in their small boats. The
center's translation of Norse sagas makes fascinating reading. Iron ore allowed
for the forging of many tools and weapons, a first in North America and many
are on display at the museum.
Jackie and I walked from the Interpretation Center to
the Norse village, along the boardwalk. We came upon an immense bronze
sculpture that straddles the trail that leads to the grass mounds and the
Viking site. We had to stop for a photo opportunity at the “Meeting of Two
Worlds” sculpture. It’s striking and breathtaking.
A branch-like figure strikes across a Norse sail. It
represents the first meeting of European and North American Native cultures.
It’s open to interpretation but the Norse sail is linked to their thirst for
exploration while the whales and tree on the native piece is linked to natives'
connection to nature. Newfoundland and Labrador artist Luben Boykov created the
Native piece and Swedish artist Richard Brixel created the Norse sail.
At the site there is a museum and replica of a
Viking village including boathouse, church, pottery workshop and iron forge. Standing
where the first Europeans set foot in North America is something you have to
personally experience to understand the implications that momentous event had
for two continents. A recreation of sod houses let us experience life as it
must have been. We gathered around the kitchen fire in a sod hut and were
regaled by the Viking re-enactors. They had us spellbound by their Norse tales
of adventure.
We enjoyed a Father’s Day lunch at Northern Delight.
A funny story is … This restaurant was recommended to us by one of our boat tour
guides. The Fish n' Chip platter was very good. Fried with a homemade batter
and just the right amount, not more batter than fish, and was not overly
greasy. The homemade tartar sauce was also fabulous. We shared this great meal
with the entire caravan. We were very lucky, that the restaurant could accommodate
our whole group on this special day!
We had a quiet afternoon at the campground. Charlie
and I took a walk and enjoyed watching the waterfalls. These waterfalls are
part of Salmon River.
We enjoyed an evening of the taste and flavor of
Viking Life, as it might have been in 1000 ad, in the only sod covered
restaurant in North America. At the Great Viking Feast at Leifsburdir we
relaxed, enjoyed a beer from the bar, and sampled the buffet from the good ship
Ravens Wing.
Our menu included Caplin (dried salted fish), Cod
Tongue, Caplin, Jigg’s Dinner, Moose, Salmon and Cod. I’ll describe the infamous
Jigg’s Dinner. The origin of the name comes from the fact that the meal is
traditionally served at a served at kitchen parties or dances where everyone
took to the floor to do a jig or two. Into a large pot of water, cabbage,
potatoes, carrots, turnips, and salt or corned beef are boiled together with
each ingredient added at a certain time in the cooking process. Jigg’s Dinner
is popular due to the availability of all the ingredients close by and its low
cost.
We were served our beverages and appetizers by our
slave server, Garrett.
Captain Leif Hroadsson held the process of Viking
Court. Two of our caravaneers, who happen to be pilots, charged our wagon
master with misidentification of an airplane. The witness swore that she knew
nothing about airplanes, but trusted the pilots.
Our wagon master was found guilty, by the court
and sentenced to bondage.
No comments:
Post a Comment