On Sunday June 25, 2017 we departed Arm of Gold
Campground. John and his family have been awesome hosts! For anyone camping or
looking for a campground in the Bras d’Or area, Arm of Gold is my only
recommendation! We heard sirens all night and as we were getting ready. We saw
tankers coming and going from the intersection closest to the campground. I
searched the news, but could not find anything.
We got back onto Highway 105 and did a little
backtracking. Since there is really only one way onto Cape Breton Island! We
crossed the Seal Island Bridge. I told you about the structure when we arrived
in Cape Breton. Now I will talk about the controversy, as the location of the bridge
had proven extremely controversial. It replaced two ferry services crossing the
Great Bras d'Or; one at the northeastern end between New Campbellton-Big Bras
d'Or, and the other at the southwestern end at Big Harbor-Ross Ferry.
It was decided to place the bridge halfway between
the two ferry services on account of an outcry by communities fearing the loss
of their transportation links. Unfortunately to do this required a massive
modification to the Trans-Canada Highway 105 on the eastern slope of Kelly's
Mountain, creating the 180° "switchback". A safer alternative to
continue the highway further east on a gradual descent of Kelly's Mountain
toward New Campbellton, crossing at the northern end of the Great Bras d'Or
channel was rejected. Likewise, a route between Beinn Bhreagh and Kempt Head at
the extreme southwestern end of the channel, a much wider waterway but avoiding
Kelly's Mountain altogether, was never considered. There have been numerous
deaths at the switchback over the years.
If I was thinking, we would have left early and
gotten on the pull off on the other side to photograph the rigs coming across
it! Oh, well … I looked back out my window and did catch a couple after they
had crossed the bridge!
On the climb of Kelly’s Mountain, the graffiti
covered rocks are detracting from the natural beauty of the mountain. The route
over the mountain in Cape Breton gives drivers the view of St. Ann's on one
side and Bras d'Or Lake on the other. The spray-painted images and names on the
rocks that have long sullied the view, except in one case. There is a
spray-painted portrait of Kelly.
Bras d’Or Lake is an inland sea, or large body of
partially fresh/salt water in the center of Cape Breton Island. Bras d'Or Lake
is sometimes referred to as the Bras d'Or Lakes or the Bras d'Or Lakes system;
however, its official geographic name is Bras d'Or Lake as it is a singular
entity. There are several competing explanations of the origin of the name
"Bras d'Or". The most popular is that the first Europeans to discover
and subsequently settle the area were French, naming the lake Bras d'Or meaning
"arm of gold"; this likely referring to the sun's rays reflected upon
its waters. However, on the maps of 1872 and earlier, the lake is named
"Le Lac de Labrador," and the literal meaning of Labrador is
"Laborer." In a paper prepared by the late Dr. Patterson for the Nova
Scotia Historical Society he says he believed the name Bras d'Or came from the
Breton form of Bras 'd'eau arm of water or of the sea. The Mi'kmaq Nation named
it Pitu'pok, roughly translated as "long salt water".
Prior to the arrival of the first settlers, the
Middle River and Nyanza areas were inhabited by the Mi’Kmaq First Nations
people. Just over 200 years ago, the first Scottish immigrants arrived and for
many years, others followed. The first settlers from Scotland took up land along
the river, were fish were plentiful. The river is a vibrant today as it was
inviting then!
On the way to Bras d’Or we passed a house that I
thought looked like a castle, on the way back out, I saw that I was right!
There is the million dollar “Castle Moffett.” in Bucklaw. It is a nearly 10,000-square
foot home sitting on 200 acres of rolling hills overlooking Bras d'Or Lake. The
house was built for Linda Moffett more than 20 years ago by her then-husband,
Desmond. The castle’s 10 bedrooms are each uniquely decorated with four-post
and canopy beds. There are even whirlpools in some of the ensuite bathrooms.
There is also a two-story "great room" on the main floor, as well as
a wood-paneled lounge, a wine cellar, and sauna in the "dungeon"
basement.
There are plenty of ferries in Nova Scotia. We did not
take this ferry, but the Englishtown Ferry is a cable ferry carrying vehicles
and passengers on Route 312 across the mouth of St. Ann's Bay. The ferry route
runs 24 hours a day, on demand, and takes only a couple minutes to cross the 410
foot wide channel. You could throw a rock and hit the other side, the ferry
just saves driving time and distance to enjoy part of the Cabot Trail. The Little
Narrows Ferry operates in the same manner, just further west off TCH 105 in Victoria
County.
There are several First Nation Communities in the
Cape Breton area. We passed through a couple. Here is a sign from one, along
the Skye River. Here is another proud Mi'kmaw community, near Antigonish.
Canso Causeway connects St Georges Bay and Chedabucto
Bay. On the Cape Breton side of the Canso Causeway, there is the Canso Canal
Bridge. It is a rotating swing bridge that carries the 2 traffic lanes of
Highway 104 as well as a single track railway line operated by the Cape Breton
and Central Nova Scotia Railway. The bridge is 308 feet long. The bridge
carried its first traffic, a train, in April of 1955 when the Canso Causeway
construction was completed. The railway employs a bridge operator who is
required by federal law to rotate the structure to accommodate vessel passage.
The wagon master has never seen it rotated in his 30 years of making this trip …
but the tail-enders got to see it rotate this year, as they let a small barge
pass through half way through our convoy of RVs.
We made our rest stop in Antigonish at a familiar
place. The Canadian Tire / Sobey’s plaza where we had all our rigs measured for
the ferry on our way north. It gave everyone a change to stretch their legs, get groceries, liquor or items from Canadian Tire.
(3360) Riverside International Speedway is a 1/3 mile, high
banked, asphalt short track located in James River, Nova Scotia. I had to grab
a picture of it, for our racing friends, Kenny & Annie! It started out as a
dream Antigonish businessman John Chisholm, who was an avid racing fan and was
determined to advance his favorite sport in his home province. In 1967 Chisholm
flew down to Bristol Motor Speedway and met with NASCAR co-founder Bill France,
Sr., who gave him permission to model the track after a scaled-down version of
Bristol. So, there is a little bit of Tennessee in Nova Scotia! Chisholm and his team began construction on the speedway in 1968, it was
completed a year later and opened its doors for the first time on May 18, 1969.
I just have to remark again, on how colorful town signs on the highway are in Nova Scotia!
I have no idea the name of this farm, but I thought
it was so pretty … I am calling in the “peppermint” two silo farm.
In Truro, we got off Route 104 and onto Route 102.
This was the second time some of us were crossing a bridge
over other parts of the caravan. This time, it was daylight and I was able to
get a picture. Walter told me him and Betty are directly below us in the
underpass.
We crossed the Salmon River during low tide. This is
still part of the Bay of Fundy and you can tell, because the side of the river
are dirt and the water is very muddy.
Mill Brook, is another proud Mi’kmaw community. Their Cultural
Center has a very over-sized Indian Statue in the parking lot. He reminds me of
the big Indian that used to stand at the intersection if Routes 15 and 20A, in
Avon.
We turned onto Route 2 and arrived in Brookfield, a
town known for its volunteers!
Speaking of volunteers ... We arrived at Scotia Pines Campground and were
greeted and directed by our “dawn patrol.” They are such a welcome sight when
you arrive! Everyone that has been on the "dawn patrol" has paid to be on the caravan and has volunteered to help the other cravaneers by leaving early and assisting with our arrival! Hats off to all of them!
We had time for a quick lunch and rallied for our car
caravan to Wide Open Wilderness Campground, to view the tidal bore. As we
passed over the Schubenacadie Canal, there were shouts of joy from all the
vehicles … because the tide was still out! We made it!
What is the Tidal Bore? With the world’s highest
recorded tides, the Bay of Fundy is witness to one of Nature’s unique shows
found on the Shubenacadie River. The bore of “first tidal wave” will gather
height and strength as it nears the head of the bay and enters the river.
There’s nothing quite like the moment when immense force of the incoming tide
will reverse the outgoing river and send it backwards, it makes your heart skip
a beat. The Shubenacadie River is the longest in Nova Scotia at almost 45 miles
from Grand Lake to Maitland.
There are several observation points along the river
that provide panoramic views.
I really can’t describe it … but we watched the almost
dry river bed change from a place people could stand to four feet of water,
with rapids, in 22 minutes.
More water and yet more water.
A few rapids have started.
Rapids big enough to raft on!
We enjoyed ice cream at the campground, where
they let us watch the tidal bore and headed back to the campground for a social
hour or two. Everyone enjoyed a quiet night, before our move to Halifax.
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