Saturday, July 24, 2021

July 20th & 21st, 2021 … Summer of Fun continues!

While in Pymatuning you must stop at the spillway and see the ducks and fish! The food is white bread, the fish are carp, and the venue is the Spillway on the Pymatuning Reservoir. Linesville, a small town with population of around 1,100, is affectionately known as the place “Where the Ducks Walk on the Fish,” and is home to The Pymatuning Spillway, which is a small part of the huge Pymatuning Dam.

Common carp were brought to the US in 1831. In the late 19th century, they were distributed widely throughout the country by the government as a food-fish, but they are now rarely eaten in the US. They live large in man-made and natural reservoirs and pools, and in slow or fast moving rivers. They prefer larger, slower-moving bodies of water with soft sediments. Common carp can live up to 20 years. The average size of the common carp is from 15 to 30 inches in length and weight from 4 to 30 pounds.



While we were out, we enjoyed a late lunch at the Crooked Paddle Pub. It is located less than a mile from the spillway. Charlie enjoyed a burger and I had a grilled chicken sandwich. Both were very good!


The next morning, we departed Pymatuning State Park after two days of visiting friends and exploring the area.

We needed gas, so we deviated from our planned route and headed into Ohio on Ohio Route 87. That route took us into the Gustavus Historic District. It is located at the intersection of State Routes 87 and 193. This national historic district area has 12 buildings listed on the National Historic Registry. The prominent architecture styles include both Greek Revival and Federal. Major buildings dating from 1832 to 1898 surround the village green, the geographic center of Gustavus Township.


Built in 1832 on the northwest quadrant, the George Hezlep House features Federal-Greek Revival architecture and has a closet reputedly used on the Underground Railroad. Built in 1840, the Farmers' Exchange Store was originally a double entrance Greek Revival structure. The Storekeeper's House, also a Greek Revival structure, was built next to the exchange store in 1840. South of this house is the Fraternal Hall, built in 1870.

There were once four churches in Gustavus including the Methodist Church, built in 1856 with a temple front and a belfry, and the Congregational Church, built east of the center in 1854. The eclectic Town Hall was built in 1890 and fronts the southeast quadrant. The Gustavus Centralized School, reported as the first centralized school in the United States, was built in 1898 and was replaced by the current building in 1928.

The next “big” town we came to was Mesopotamia, Ohio. This town is in the heart of Amish Country. One of the oldest general stores in Ohio, it has been in continuous operation since 1840, End of the Commons General Store. They stock over 1,000 bulk food products, hard to find housewares & kitchen gadgets, homemade fudge, hand dipped ice cream, over 150 varieties of old fashioned soda & penny candy. Steps away from the store entrance is a 15’ woodcarving featuring a frontiersman reminiscent of early settlers living in the area that was carved from a 350-year-old oak tree stump. 

Across from the store and adjacent to the Commons sits the world’s largest Amish horse and buggy which stands 14” high and 32’ long. Ken and Margaret Schaden and their 11 children run the End of the Commons General Store. After many years in corporate sales planning, Ken & Margaret found what the family was looking for in Mesopotamia; the family, living in Mesopotamia, visited the very store they own today to buy milk, groceries, and penny candy for their large family. When the store was for sale the Schadens believed that it would be a great way for their family to work together while serving the needs of their own neighborhood. Familiar with shopping in bulk for their own large family, the Schadens decided they could best serve the Amish community with bulk products at reasonable prices. The old grocery store had to be cleared out of its back rooms to make room for the bulk products.  As the cleaning process began, it soon became clear that what was thrown into back rooms and into the basement and attic, was not junk, but store history! They found hundreds of items: old store products, supplies, furniture, and fixtures. Cash registers, scales, needle boxes, dry goods, and actual food products in cans, tins, and boxes dating from the late 19th century! Penny candy still lines the shelves by the checkout counter, where slots and boxes of the old post office remain. People actually ask "How much is the penny candy?" but around here it still is a penny! 

We turned onto US 224, a generally east – west route. It is a rural arterial highway, mostly two lanes, across Ohio. It runs roughly parallel to the former Baltimore and Ohio Railroad from its westerly US 42 junction to Tiffin, a city around which it sweeps to the south with intersections at various state highways that radiate out from downtown.

US 224 took us through Newton Falls. Newton Falls would be “famous” for a waterfalls, right? No … home to the famous 44444 ZIP code, the only US zip code in the contiguous US where all five numbers are the same. The town's namesake falls feed into different branches of the Mahoning River.


We found an old time store, Field View Mercantile, a local family run business specializing in selling old advertising, vintage toys, antiques, primitives, specialty treats, artisanal products, and seasonal decor. They would love to buy your old advertising signs!

We passed between Lake Milton and Lake Berlin and wondered why two lakes that were connected had different names? Lake Milton was built as a water supply for Youngstown. Within 10 years, however, the city found other water sources, and the lake largely became recreational. The downstream mills of US Steel and Youngtown Sheet and Tube used the lake to cool the waters of the Mahoning River, which they used to cool ingots. If the river water got too warm in the summer, the steel was too brittle. The mills would then ask the city to open the Lake Milton spillway and let some of the reservoir’s cooler water flow into the river. 

A very interesting part of Lake Milton's history ....Meanwhile, a number of small cottages started to crop up along the lake’s east bank. Although the city of Youngstown owned the lake and most of the property around it, fishermen began to erect tents, then lean-tos and finally cottages to spend weekends fishing. The city turned a blind eye at first but eventually began to collect a small rent from the cottage owners. They were squatters, essentially, living on city land. They had electric, none of which would have passed standards today. There were a lot of outhouses, a lot of which flowed right into the lake. By the mid-1980s, some of those cottages began turning into houses. A few were nice houses, including one owned by the Cafaro family, which made millions of dollars developing malls across the country. But Youngstown was hurting. The mills had closed. Just before the corps released its report on the Lake Milton dam, Youngstown had let its liability insurance lapse and had closed all its parks and recreation facilities. The residents rallied, getting the ear of their local politicians, led by then-state Sen. Harry Meshel. A deal was struck in which the state agreed to divert $4.3 million from another project to fix the dam. In exchange, the state would take over Lake Milton as a state park. As part of the deal, the cottage owners would get to buy their property. A lake cottage in 1995 was valued at $44,500, according to the Mahoning Valley auditor. The next year, a house was built on the site, valued at $228,500. Now, this 10-room, 4,700-square-foot home with a dock just outside the back door on the lake is valued at nearly $600,000. Property along N. East River Road, where Gardner lives, now easily commands more than $500,000, according to local Realtor Howard Vayner.

Ohio's Mahoning River is Berlin Lake. The Mahoning River has long done double-duty safeguarding the water levels downstream in Warren and Youngstown and providing a water source for citizens and industry. Berlin Lake actually began as the back-up reservoir for nearby Lake Milton a few miles downstream. Approved by the legislature early in the 20th century, the dam was completed in 1942 and Berlin Lake began its job of flood control, water level stabilization and water supply shortly afterward. The 18-mile long reservoir has a surface area of 3,590 acres during the normal summer, but can expand to 5,500 acres when heavy rainfall occurs. The lake is the fifth-largest inland lake in Ohio. Most visitors to Berlin Lake are interested in the recreational opportunities the large lake provides. The US Army Corps of Engineers maintains the Mill Creek Recreation Area around the lake which offers four public boat launch sites. Many bays and meandering arms make Berlin Lake ideal for paddle-craft such as canoes and kayaks, and pontoon boating on the lake is a favorite activity.


We saw lots of barns repainted with the "chew mail pouch" advertising!


We also spotted a Wrestlemania trailer, while we were getting gas!


Established in 1854, Fostoria is best known for its famous glass production years and for its abundant rail traffic and business that continues today. Fostoria was also the home for over a dozen glass factories during the end of the 19th century. The glass factories were established in Fostoria because of the discovery of natural gas in the area. As the gas supply became depleted, many of the factories closed or moved—including the Fostoria Glass Company.


Hundreds of 100 trains pass through the city each day. The city is often visited by rail fans, and a railroad viewing park, constructed to facilitate the viewings. The Fostoria Rail Preservation Society is dedicated to preserving railroad history and public education. They are the caretakers of the former Lake Erie and Western Depot, as well as the Fostoria Iron Triangle Visitor Center and Viewing Area. The viewing platform is open 24/7, 365 days a year, the 5.6 acre rail park provides a unique 360 degree unobstructed view of trains passing by on any of the surrounding rails. Three mainline double tracks cross each other and form a triangle around the rail park, hence the name “Iron Triangle.”


After Fosoria, we arrived in Van Buren at the State Park. Our home for the next two nights. Stay tuned as we make our way westward!

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