On Sunday May 24th, we left Lumberton NC and headed to Sumter SC. We came by South of the Border, again. The signs for this Mexican-kitsch rest stop turned semi-amusement park straddling the Carolinas are not as vast heading south as they are heading north.
Personally I believe that South of the Border is not what it used to be. Minigolf and the carousel are shuttered. Security cars patrol through the empty parking lots. Like Wall Drug or any number of quirky roadside attractions, South of the Border is an emblem of a bygone era of American road travel, before air travel became popular. How it got here and how it survives is a recurring question by many.
South of the Border started with a simple business idea. In 1949, North Carolina’s Robeson County passed a law prohibiting the sale of alcohol. Alan Schafer, a South Carolina beer distributor, had the idea to set up a beer stand just across the border in Dillon County. The stand quickly transformed into a groundbreaking business venture. Local legend had it that Schafer used his influence to ensure that I-95 had an offramp leading right to South of the Border; Schafer told The Washington Post in the 1970s that the exit was planned there anyway, but he acknowledged that he pressured Dillon County officials to keep the exit there after they proposed moving it to North Carolina.
Schafer’s depot became the kind of kitschy fever dream that characterized the heyday of the American road trip: A fireworks shop. Minigolf. A geodesic domed hotel with flamingo statues guarding the entrance. That 200-foot sombrero-topped tower. Teens from the area worked their first summer jobs there. As the 20th century wound down and the road trip’s importance waned in pop culture, so did South of the Border. Even back in the 1990s, it was already a little shabby.
Dillon, South Carolina, is best known as the home of South of the Border. It is also celebrated for its rich agricultural history, historic downtown district, and its past reputation as the "Wedding Capital of the East."
We drove through Lynchburg, SC on US 301. The city's name comes from its founder John Lynch, a Quaker abolitionist and businessman who established a ferry across the James River in 1757. Before Emancipation in 1865 thousands of enslaved laborers brought great wealth and fame to Lynchburg through its tobacco manufacturing industry.
Arrived at Tim & Debbie Carroll's, our home for the next 5 nights. We enjoyed our afternoon together and then we had dinner at Willie Sue's.
We were so busy talking, I took no pictures! Ricky McLeod's grandmother, Willie Sue Pierson McLeod (Nanny, to him) was born in the rural southern part of Sumter County. His grandparents made their living in the industries of timber and cotton and were severely affected by the Great Depression. After financial devastation, they relocated the city of Sumter where my great grandmother found herself working in the kitchens of local boarding houses.
When his grandmother was growing up, she inherited her mother's talents in the kitchen. Fortunately for him, before her death, she was able to pass her knowledge of work ethic down to him. She taught him so much, and he has a great amount of respect and affection for her, more than any woman he has ever known. Serving guests at his restaurant, he hopes to honor her and show how much she really meant to him. She has been his inspiration behind Willie Sue's, and that her memory will live on through this homage to a wonderful woman.
Stay tuned for more Two Lane Adventures!



































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