Day 11 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Saturday 7/7/18

Saturday morning visit with Jo & Allen Sullivan. I worked with Allen at Carefree, ohhhhhh those were the good ole days! We did not get to see him that often, as he was our IT guy. We always had a good time when he came to the office and he always would drag his wife, Jo, along! The weather turned a bit cooler and we were able to sit outside and enjoy their company. Billy & Pattye got to meet them and made the connection of who they both knew … it’s a small world … like those 6 degrees of separation!

We took care of a necessary evil today … Laundry. But we are in luck, Pattye & Bully found a clean modern laundromat in Troy TN! So we packed up all the dirty dainties, quarters, soap, softener and dryer sheets and took our trek to clean, dry and fold! Charlie & Bully held down a bench on the covered front porch, while Pattye and I slaved away in the A/C.

We spent the afternoon feeding the squirrels and visiting. Just a nice relaxing day!

We had a planned dinner out with all 4 couples at a restaurant in Obion, TN. I asked all of the Tennessee natives, what is in Obion … and the only thing they could come up with was the place we were going Alibi Bar & Grill. It must be a happening place, we had to have reservations for 8 of us! The building has been a variety of businesses, including a parts store. 

But, now a grey blue exterior and a non-descript sign announces, you have arrived. The interior is black painted brick with limited lighting and a neon sign. Lucky, we were seated near the door and the few high windows near the ceiling.

The menu is patterned after stages of a courtroom drama, appetizers are arraignments, burgers and sandwiches are under the opening statements, other main dishes are listed under the trial and closing statements. The verdict is where the seafood is found and the sentencing is where the dessert is listed.

The best way to describe the food, is in pictures. I will say that no one had a bad meal!

Edna had a 4 piece chicken strip salad. I would say, it is more like a 4 piece chicken breast salad! I am a salad eating machine, but I doubt I could have even finished that one!

Carl had Prime Rib. His entrée was the closest to a “normal” size!

Charlie had loaded “Canadian” fries. It listed it as 1-pound of fries … and they were not kidding. It was covered in brown gravy and homemade cheese sauce.

I had Shrimp Scampi. It was 10 shrimp in a delicious sauce and grilled vegetables.

Bully had a hot hamburger plate. Yes, there is a hamburger under that large pile of mashed, oh in the south they are called creamed potatoes and brown gravy!

Pattye had grilled shrimp. She had the most healthy meal!

Debbie had a single cheeseburger with loaded creamed potatoes. That is one slice of cheese with one hamburger patty ... you can get a double or triple! Yikes!

James had a Fried Green Tomato Burger. Only 1 burger, 1 slice of cheese, but 2 fried green tomatoes on top! Did I mention that a burger comes with 1/2 pound of homemade fries or chips.

As you can imagine, no one had room for dessert! But we heard they are famous for their cheesecake ... you can purchase a whole cheesecake for $54. It must be delicious and full of calories!

We went back to the campground to fall into a food coma, relax outside with framily and capture the sunset. 

While we talked and dozed, we got a surprise visit from Tammy & Rick! I got a bigger surprise, because they gave me two quarts of shelled pecans. Ohhhhh, I am soooooo happy ... to get the pecans, but also to get one more change to see Tammy & Rick! Since we won't get to see them in Florida, because Tammy choose Rick getting another new knee over coming to Florida ... if the weather gets too cold, she might rethink her decision!

The sunset was just a gorgeous as I had hoped! It was more pink than any other night!

I thank the sunset boat cruise for enhancing my picture!

Day 10 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Friday 7/6/18

On Friday morning, we met Carl & Edna at Lakeview for Breakfast. We did not have to get up early, but Edna did! Carl normally goes to breakfast alone …

If you are visiting Reelfoot Lake and are looking for a great place to start your day with breakfast you will want to eat at Lakeview. It has an extensive and not very typical breakfast menu. Items such as grilled or fried Pork Tenderloin, Omelets, Country Ham and Red Eye Gravy, Pancakes to Bologna and eggs and fresh home biscuits with sawmill gravy. You may have a hard time deciding what to order. However, the name is deceiving … If you are looking for a view of the lake while you are dining this isn’t the restaurant ... while there is a view of the lake the best view is from the parking lot.

After breakfast we visited the RC Donaldson Memorial Museum at the Reelfoot Lake State Park Visitors Center which features a variety of exhibits and audio visual programs explaining the ecology, history, and culture of the area. 

This looks more like an abstract piece of art than it does a mapping of the the Mississippi River. It shows how much the river has moved over the years.

The nature center at the museum contains various non-releasable raptors, several snakes, and other wildlife. The facility has a gift shop that features wildlife field guides, nature books, and books on area history.

We took a self-guided stroll along the cypress boardwalk nature trail. It took us along the edge of the lake and next to large Cypress Trees with large knees.

We found tress with lightning damage. They have a reddish streak and some bark is missing. You will also note, that some of the knees are reddish too. 

Conifers like the bald cypress and the pines have high resin content and are more susceptible to internal heating from a lightning strike. They have almost 100 percent survival rate. Bald Cypress Tree can grow to 10 feet in diameter and can be as old as a 1,000 years old.

The shallow, cypress filled waters are recognized as one of the world’s greatest natural fish hatcheries. Anglers can catch fish in shady cathedrals of the stately trees or on the open water or from shore. Bald cypress trees grow alone and in clusters throughout Reelfoot’s 10-mile length. Remnants of anglers can be found in the trees!

The Tiptonville Museum became a reality about 15 years ago. But the idea was years in the making and is finally a reality. It chronicles life in a typical agricultural community of the Mississippi River delta. The museum is located in the Emmett Lewis Heritage Center adjacent to city hall in Tiptonville.

The museum was named for a man who served as fire chief for more than 40 years. Lewis loved the history of Northwest Tennessee and especially the history of the Mississippi River. 

Throughout this life, he collected books, photographs and artifacts that told the stories of countless men and women who had died in relative obscurity and yet, their lives shaped the destiny of the region. Even when he was fire chief, he became the unofficial "city historian" and whenever there was a question from visitors about Tiptonville's past, they were usually referred to him at the firehouse. Following Lewis' death in 1996, his wife, Mary, gave his collection of regional history books to the local library. But many of the other items, including several notebooks filled with Mississippi River steamboat photographs, were placed on permanent loan with the city and are now on display in the new museum.

When Tiptonville built a new fire station on Kentucky Street, it left the old fire hall on South Court Street across from the County Courthouse open for renovation. This was deemed an ideal location for the museum, which actually occupies the garage that once held the city fire engines. One room of Lewis' old apartment in the back of the hall has been set up as a replica general store.

The Tiptonville Beautification Council, now called the Tiptonville Main Street Association, started working on the museum in 2000. Local residents began to send articles of historic significance as support for the project grew. Virtually all of the money for the building renovation, about $20,000, was collected within the community. The association held bake sales, a Victorian garden party, arts and crafts sales, dances and dinners to raise cash for the project. Work setting up the museum and cataloging and labeling donated items was largely done by volunteers.

Displays include a traditional lake boat built by Dale Calhoun, longtime resident of the Reelfoot Lake area. The Reelfoot "Lake Boat", or "Stumpjumper" is the oldest tradition at Reelfoot. Four generations of Calhoun's have built these unique boats and they are a true collector’s item. They are featured in numerous museums all over the country, including the Smithsonian Institute and are also still used on the lake to this day. Even though the lake boat's origins are unclear, they were believed to have first been built around 150 years ago. There have been many builders of stumpjumpers over the years, but the longest lasting and most recognized are the Calhouns. It all started for the Calhouns around 1910 in Hornbeak, just a few miles from Reelfoot, where Dale's great grandfather had a woodworking and blacksmith shop. He practiced part time boat making, but it wasn't until his son Boone took over, that it became a full time lake boat operation. Designed to help navigate the many stumps and trees still standing in Reelfoot Lake, these boats are unique in every way. The slim design and shallow draft of these boats were perfect for navigating the shallow waters of Reelfoot.

An exhibit of General Clifton B. Cates, former Commandant of the U.S. Marine Corps. Cates was born on 31 August 1893 at Cates Landing, the family farm on the Mississippi River where his father grew cotton, near the little town of Tiptonville. Growing up, he lived a farm boy's life with plenty of time spent on the river and in the fields and woods. He attended country schools until old enough to go away to Missouri Military Academy, a preparatory school across the river in Mexico, MO. His performance with the 6th Marines campaign in the town of Vierzy, got him a citation for gallantry in action that became a Silver Star when that medal was established in 1932. Between 1932 and 1945 he had assignments in the Pacific and stateside assignments. In December 1945 Cates came back from the Pacific and was made president of the Marine Corps Equipment Board at Quantico. This was sort of a holding job until 6 months later he could become the Commanding General, Marine Barracks, Quantico.  On 1 January 1948, with a promotion to four stars, Cates became the Commandant of the Marine Corps. Gen Cates, 19th Commandant, died on 4 June 1970, just short of age 77, in the naval hospital at Annapolis.

Rock-and-roll pioneer Carl Perkins has a display in the museum. He was born in Tiptonville in April 9, 1932. His boyhood home was moved to the Carl Perkins Visitor Center in Tiptonville. Born the son of a sharecropper and made it to the top of his profession. Proclaimed The King of the Rockabillys, his best known song was Blue Suede Shoes, recorded in 1956 and yes this was before Elvis recorded his version.

As well as a host of items that were part of the general history of the community. We found many posters from WWII and had to grab a picture of this poster for COL Kym! It was an awesome place to see local history, and we would have missed it … if not for having friends from the area! If you are in the area, it is a must see destination for regional history.

We enjoyed the food (hamburgers on the pellet grill) and fellowship at James & Debbie’s campsite. Naturally, we had awesome desserts too!

The night ended with awesome sunset photo opportunities.

Thanks to the anglers who made this photo a bit more special!

Day 9 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Thursday 7/5/18

Our friend Carl, kept talking about the Reelfoot Lake Night Riders. I had to do some research and learned that probably no event in the region’s history, with the exception of the Civil War, polarized the population of Obion County as did the Night Rider episodes of 1908.

More than a century later, public opinion still varies greatly in regard to the character and motivation of the men and women involved in the Reelfoot violence. For seven months in 1908, masked horsemen rode roughshod over a portion of Obion County and imposed their own brand of justice with whips, shotguns and arson.

picture from The Tennessee Magazine

The Night Rider chapter was a dispute over title to Reelfoot Lake and the surrounding land. The lake was created by the cataclysmic forces of the 1811-12 earthquakes. Tthe lake and its wildlife supplemented the diets and incomes of subsistence farmers in the area. Although claims on the land existed prior to the earthquake, the local population regarded the lake as public domain. When the West Tennessee Land Company quietly purchased old claims and made plans to drain at least part of the lake and convert it to cotton production, the region’s residents reacted violently.

On the night of October 19, 1908, after several weeks of increasingly violent activities, events moved swiftly to a tragic point. Masked riders kidnapped Tennessee Land Company officers RZ Taylor and Quinton Rankin from Ward’s Hotel in Walnut Log. Rankin was murdered, but Taylor escaped into the swamp and was presumed dead. He survived by hiding under a cypress log and was found more than twenty-four hours later, wandering and disoriented.

picture from The Tennessee Magazine

Governor Malcolm Patterson personally took charge of matters and arrived in the lake region with the Tennessee National Guard. By the end of October, nearly one hundred suspects were incarcerated in a makeshift camp set up by the Guard. The suspects received very harsh treatment while in the custody of the state, and two died while awaiting trial. Eventually, six were found guilty in the murder of Quinton Rankin and sentenced to death. The Tennessee Supreme Court overturned their convictions in 1909.

Public opinion favored the plight of the Reelfoot Lake people. As a consequence, the state acquired title to the lake in 1914, ending the threat of private ownership. If you want to learn more, I recommend “Night Riders of Reelfoot Lake” by Paul Vanderwood.

We drove into Hickman, Kentucky. The City of Hickman was established in 1834 and is the county seat of Fulton County. Hickman is located in the most western part of Kentucky on the Mississippi River. It is nestled under and atop the bluffs overlooking the great Mississippi River. Mark Twain once called Hickman, "The Most Beautiful Town on the Mississippi." We found a mural of Mark Twain on the side of a building. A funny side note … the city of Hickman is in Foley County and the city of Foley is in Hickman County.

What is in Hickman? The US Coast Guard is in Hickman. When I think of the Coast Guard, I think of swift boats chasing down drug smugglers in the ocean or executing rescues in the sea between Cuba and Florida. All of these missions are important; however, there are about 20 men in Hickman, Kentucky, who are just as vital as anyone else in the Coast Guard. 

So what is the Coast Guard Doing in Kentucky? The US Coast Guard Cutter CHENA is based out of Hickman Harbor and its primary mission is to maintain a safe shipping channel on the Lower Mississippi River (from Cairo, Illinois down to River Styx Landing, Arkansas.) This allows for the transport of millions of dollars’ worth of raw materials to the heartland. In addition, they provide a safe and navigable channel for national defense forces to gain access to this region in times of emergency or heightened security. Without the men keeping the shipping channels safe, the barges that carry coal, gravel, concrete, grain and everything else that you find on a barge, could run aground in the mighty Mississippi. That would definitely put a kink in commerce around here and across the entire nation.

Carl & Edna carried us to Hickman to see the breathtaking historical mural scenes on Clinton Street, in downtown Hickman. 

A total of 79 murals cover the floodwall depicting memorable moments from this little river town. It's sad that there is not much else in this part of town, but the murals!

Over the course of about three years, people have watched as a Lake County Tennessee artist, Karon Griffin, turned the once blank floodwall into colorful, one-of-a-kind paintings worthy of high praise. These murals certainly are drawing people to the area. I am told Karon paints all of these out of the kindness of heart.

Hickman’s downtown park is the perfect place to sit and view the floodwall murals that now decorate it. They share the historical value to the river town perched on the bluff along the mighty Mississippi River.

When we visited, they were cleaning up from the 4th of July festivities and these over-sized portraits, were the backdrop!

I am told that it takes about 12 hours each to paint each mural. They are rendered from photographs or drawings that people submitted. Sponsors of the murals choose the scene they wanted on their mural space as long as it had historical relevance to Hickman and the people who reside here or once made a life along the river. 

Some of Griffin’s favorite ones to paint include Hickman Hardware, the LaClede Hotel, Cemetery Arch and the USS Taylor. Our friend, Edna knows the artist, personally. It made viewing these murals even more special!

To the right is a picture of the LaClede Hotel with the brick horseshoe entry way, then we turned around and we could see the actual historic building. I can picture people streaming in from the paddleboats to stay here.

We visited the Columbus-Belmont State Park, a place where our framily from Tennessee has often camped! One stop in the camping area, we can see why it is one of their favorites. The views are breathtaking!

At the park we got a glimpse of our 2020 Yankee RV caravan along the Great River Road. Oh, the places we will see!

There is a great deal of history in this State Park. Confederate General Leonidas Polk fortified the area now occupied by the park beginning September 3, 1861. The fort at Columbus was built upon a bluff along the "cutside" of the river. The fort was christened Fort DeRussey, after an engineer supervising construction of fortifications, but Polk referred it as the "Gibraltar of the West". 

He had equipped it with a massive chain that was stretched across the Mississippi to Belmont, Missouri, to block the passage of Union gunboats and supply vessels to and from Southern destinations in the western theaters of the war. Equipped also with 143 cannons, Columbus was the Northern-most Confederate base along the Mississippi, protecting Memphis, Vicksburg, and other key Southern holdings.  

Paducah was founded in 1827 by William Clark of Lewis & Clark fame. Its rich history can be traced to its strategic location at the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers. There are five life size bronze sculptures celebrating the Lewis & Clark Expedition in historic downtown Paducah.

From the Civil War to civil rights, Paducah's narrative is intricately connected to America's history. Paducah's history is reflected and preserved in its architecture and historic attractions, including the 1905 Market House, Market House Museum and "Wall to Wall" Murals.

Robert Dafford, one of America's most prolific muralists, from Lafayette, Louisiana and his mural team has captured Paducah's rich history in life-sized paintings on the river city's floodwall. 

These panoramic "Portraits from Paducah's Past" overlook the convergence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers and illustrate Paducah's historical significant events.

There are other landmarks, museums and architecture that can be viewed to understand Paducah's story. Tours and trails connect Paducah's cultural heritage to the greater American story by way of the US Grant Trail, Lewis & Clark Eastern Legacy and local Quilt Block Trail. Our friend Kathy, is an avid quilter and has followed the Quilt Block Trail.

Last summer, we learned all about UNESCO sites. Today we learned that Paducah is a designated UNESCO Creative City anchored by the National Quilt Museum and a thriving fiber arts community. The United Nations Educational, Scientific & Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Paducah, Kentucky, the world’s seventh City of Crafts & Folk Art in November 2013 for the City’s important role in the connectivity of cultures through creativity. From the colorful revitalization of the Lower Town Arts District to the vibrant streets of 19th century architecture in Historic Downtown, Paducah invites visitors to immerse themselves in rich American heritage and distinctively creative culture - and find your inspiration in Paducah!

Can you imagine traveling from port to port on a paddle boat? Traveling on America's majestic inland rivers allows passengers a unique mode of transportation to discover America in much the same manner as the original steamboat travelers. We were lucky enough to see a paddleboat in the port of Paducah! Paducah's riverfront is a port of call for the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, Mississippi Queen, RiverBarge Explorer, American Queen steamboats and others. This is only port that's located where four major eastern rivers converge in America's heartland.

It was an awesome day with friends, seeing new sights and learning more about this great country!

Day 8 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Wednesday 7/4/18

We enjoyed a quiet 4th of July at Reelfoot Lake, with our framily and friends, new and old! 

First think in the morning, we met on the porch of the Blue Bank Resort, to enjoy coffee and nature, with Karen & Wayne.






There is a beautiful Butterfly Garden at Blue Bank Resort, where Karen & Wayne are staying.

You can find a legend anywhere you look and Reelfoot Lake is no exception. So, I thought I would share the legend. The legend says that at the beginning of the 19th century, a tribe of the Chickasaw was ruled by a mighty Chief. His heart was heavy, for his son had been born with a deformed foot. As the boy grew and developed normally, his walk was different from all the other Indians. He walked and ran with a rolling, so his people called him Kalopin, meaning Reelfoot.

When the old chief died, Reelfoot became Chief. He, too, was sad and lonely, for none of the Indian maidens had stirred in him thoughts of love. His father had often told him of the mighty tribes dwelling to the south, and of the wondrous beauty of their maidens. So, restless in spirit, when the robins arrived from the north, he wandered south in search of a princess.

After many days of travel, he reached the land of the great Choctaw Chief, Copiah. Reelfoot then beheld his dream princess, more beautiful than he had ever dared imagine, sitting close by the side of the Chief, her father. After they had eaten and smoked the peace pipe, Reelfoot asked for the old chief’s daughter in marriage. Old Copiah was filled with wrath because he did not wish his daughter to marry a deformed chief and told Reelfoot that his daughter could only be given in wedlock to a Choctaw chieftain.

The old chief called on the Great Spirit who spoke to Reelfoot and said that an Indian must not steal his wife from any neighboring tribe, for such was tribal law. If he disobeyed and carried off the princess he, the Great Spirit, would cause the earth to rock and the waters to swallow up his village and bury his people in a watery grave. Reelfoot was frightened at this threat of dire punishment and sorrowfully returned home.

By the end of the next summer, he decided to ignore the wrath of the great Spirit and to steal the forbidden maiden. He stole the maiden, Laughing Eyes, and returned home to the great rejoicing of his people. Laughing Eyes was greatly frightened for she had heard what the Great Spirit had said to Reelfoot and begged that he send her back to her father. Reelfoot was so much in love that he was willing to defy everything.

In the midst of the celebration and the marriage rites, the earth began to roll in rhythm with kettledrums and tom-toms. The Indians tried to flee to the hills, but the rocking earth made them reel and stagger. Chief Reelfoot and his bride reeled also and the Great Spirit stomped his foot in anger. The Father of Waters heard the stomp, and, backing on his course, rushed over Reelfoot’s country.

Where the Great Spirit stomped the earth the Mississippi formed a beautiful lake, at the bottom of which lay Chief Reelfoot, his bride, and his people. Such is the Indian legend of Reelfoot Lake.

If you believe this legend ... you missed by blog from yesterday ... LOL