Two Lane Adventures: Day 23 of 30 on our 2017 Canadian Maritime Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

On Tuesday June 27, 2017, we had a “free day” with a few suggestions. We took a self-guided driving tour of Mahone Bay and Lunenburg.

I say self-guided, but we had a “cart” master … Lyle and his beautiful bride Judy. They were on the Maritimes trip nine years ago and had some knowledge of what to do and see!

Mahone Bay, as their slogan says, has been a treasure since 1754. It boasts simple, but extraordinary quality of life. The area is noted for its outstanding natural beauty, which was evident on the road we drove into the town on!

Oh the lore of days of yore. Mahone Bay, a treasure where Pirates and privateers lived the stuff of which modern movies are made. The word "mahone" is derived from a French term for the speedy low-lying craft used by pirates to stash their booty and escape the authorities.

It was the British, though, who colonized the area in 1753 and brought European settlers to the lands of what is present day Lunenburg County. These hardy Protestant settlers, from Germany and Switzerland, farmed large plots of land in an area that was better suited for more marine-like endeavors. As time unfolded, and with true Germanic zest, Mahone Bay became known for its fine ship building yards and fishing fleets.

Mahone Bay is a superb example of a town that has evolved with the centuries. Throughout the town, well maintained, century-old houses and buildings bear witness to the founders' legacy. Many are now Bed & Breakfasts, art studios, artisans' shops and eclectic boutiques, restaurants and cafés, all embracing that spirit of quality workmanship and service.

There were some cute ducks in the harbor. They were not afraid of us and they were very photogenic! I did some research and I think they are Common Merganser, also called a Goosander.

It is a vibrant seaside town with a view of the iconic three churches of Mahone Bay. Trinity United Church, the first of the three churches you encounter when entering the town, was formerly Knox Presbyterian. The church was built in 1861 behind the present location. In 1885 it was moved by teams of oxen to Edgewater Drive. St. John's Lutheran Church (the middle church) was organized in 1864. The existing building dates from 1903.

In 1887 St James Anglican Church, built in High Victorian Gothic Revival style, completed the famous trio. The lighted steeple of St James, a beacon for returning seafarers, can be seen from the entrance to Mahone Bay Harbor. These distinctive churches that cast their shadows on the tranquil waters of the harbor are one of the most photographed scenes in Nova Scotia.

Before UNESCO, before Lunenburg, and long before Canada was founded in 1867, the area of Lunenburg was Merligueche. Named by the native Mi’kmaq people, the shores of this ‘milky bay’ provided safe harbor where they found seasonal shelter and gathered clams. As time went by, French and English came, but the mainly German speaking Lutherans, with a strong work ethic, stayed. If you think the name Lunenburg sounds German, you’re not wrong. The town of Lunenburg, Germany lies in Lower Saxony but Lunenburg is not named for their homeland. Yes, their forefathers were largely German but came from a very different region. It is actually named after George II, who was the King of England at the time Lunenburg was settled. What is the connection? Being of the house of Hanover, he was also titled Duke of Braunsweig-Lunenburg. Get the connection? Since it is the only original German settlement in Nova Scotia, it is fitting.

Old Town Lunenburg was established in 1753 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are only three urban World Heritage Sites in North America. In 1995 the United Nations recognized Lunenburg for its fine preservation of Old Town, for having the best surviving example of British Colonial grid-pattern street layout, and for its authenticity as a working town. The inhabitants have managed to safeguard the city's identity throughout the centuries by preserving the wooden architecture of the houses, some of which date from the 18th century. The entire 48 blocks of old town Lunenburg is also a National Historic District.

We found parking for all three cars, close together ... which was a big surprise! We walked down the steep hill, the streets remind me more of San Francisco than Canada ... Lunch at Grand Banker Bar & Grill. There were 12 of us, so we had to take two tables of six. Every building is painted very bright colors and the restaurant was not different. It overlooked the wharf and had rooms to rent above it.

I had to take this picture at lunch, it shows our two Charlies ... and our server was Charlie ... that makes three of a kind!

After lunch, we checked out a few of the ships in port and all the motor-less carriages available to rent for tours.

We also purchased admissions to the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. We toured their newest exhibit “First Fishers.” It allowed us to explore the history of the Atlantic Canadian fishery from the earliest days of the Mi’kmaq, native people, to today.

We met a model ship builder and watched him work in the Ship Model Shop. The ship he was currently working on has been “under construction” for 18 months! Not a quick job! Volunteers from the South Shore Ship Modeler’s Guild. Our ship builder is part of this group and are on hand to demonstrate their skills to us. The modelers build a variety of vessel styles, including schooners and other traditional craft. The South Shore Ship Modeler’s Guild has their regular monthly meeting at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic.

The “kids” played with the sea creatures in the interactive tank. There were starfish, shell fish, crabs and a few fish!

We saw exhibits about rum-running, the August gales, and of course, Whales. We were able to view, lobsters, flounder, cod and more in the aquariums, too.