Two Lane Adventures: Day 38 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure

Today we took an optional ride on the 1880 Train. It follows the original route of the Chicago, Burlinton and Quincy Railroad laid in the 1880’s between Hill City and Keystone.

We car caravaned to the Hill City Depot and waited to board the train. I saw the most unusual painting on a motorhome ... I had to share!

We traveled past history and some of the most beautiful sites the Black Hills have to offer on Steam Engine # 110. This engine is a 2-6-6-2T (one pair of unpowered leading wheels, followed by two sets of three pairs of powered driving wheels and one pair of trailing wheels) articulated Mallet that was built by The Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1928 for the Weyerhaeuser Timber Company of Vail, WA. Its next stop was The Rayonier Lumber Company where it received a tender from Rayonier #101 and was retired in 1968. This engine was later displayed at the Wasatch Mountain Railway in Heber City, Utah, and then sold to the Nevada State Railway Museum. The 110 was sold to The Black Hills Central Railroad in 1999, and was trucked from Nevada to South Dakota on four semi-trailers. Restoration on this engine by the mechanical crew of the Black Hills Central was completed in the spring of 2001. It is the only 2-6-6-2T Mallet in service in the world.

On the edge of Hill City there is an abandoned spur to the Tin Mines. In 1883, tin was discovered near Hill City, and the population exploded. The Harney Peak Tin Mining, Milling, and Manufacturing Company made its headquarters on Main Street in Hill City. The company was backed by English financiers and bought 1,100 prospecting sites around the area. Shortly after leaving the station in Hill City, the train begins to climb the 4-6% grade on Tin Mill Hill. We were lucky enough to be there when #110 is in charge, we heard one of the LOUDEST steam locomotives I’ve ever heard as it works its way up the grade! The elevation of Tin Mill Hill Is 5,160 feet above sea level.

Once at the top, the line passes through forest and meadow areas, along with some family farms. Some of the land is administered by the National Forest Service. Much of the Black Hills Central follows Battle Creek, once the haunt of gold prospectors in the earlier days of the railroad.

Addie Camp was settled by the miners of the nearby Addie Mine, which was run under the England-based Harvey Peak Tin Mining, Milling, and Manufacturing Company. The company mainly produced cassiterite from the Keystone-Hill City area.

Another mine in the town, The Good Luck Mine, mined tungsten. In December 1892, the Grand Island & Wyoming Central Railroad built a line running from the town to the tin mill east of Hill City. The mine never became successful, despite shaft and drift mining down to 800 feet. On February 25, 1900, the railroad extended to Keystone, causing the town to grow again. The town included a boarding house, saloon, platform station, and commissary car for railroaders. The town declined when, in June 1917, the railroad leading into the town was removed.

This turned Addie Camp into a small farming community. All that remains are a few run down miner’s cabins, the Kennedy House and of course, the abandoned spur to the mine. The Kennedy House was recently purchased and it is rumored that they are going to restore it.

From the train, we can see the highest point in South Dakota known as Harney Peak for over 150 years, was renamed Black Elk Peak in 2016. The US Board on Geographic Names officially changed the name from Harney Peak to Black Elk Peak on August 11, 2016. This change was in honor of Nicholas Black Elk and recognized the significance of the summit to Native Americans. The granite high point is sacred ground to Native Americans, especially the Sioux. It was upon this peak towering over the Sioux Nation that a young Black Elk experienced a vision. Many years later he would recount that vision publicly as he evolved as a respected elder and medicine man. Nestled in a designated wilderness area, it is surrounded by the Black Hills National Forest. There are no roads to the summit and it is only accessible by hiking just under four miles. The trail starts near Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park. The trail from Sylvan Lake to Black Elk Peak is moderately difficult but fairly heavily traveled.

photo credit: AFAR Magazine

At 7,242 feet, Black Elk Peak stands prominently as the highest point in the Black Hills of South Dakota. Standing sentinel over the Black Hills, Black Elk Peak is topped by a stone fire tower that provides a magnificent view of the surrounding landscape. The fire lookout tower was built upon then Harney Peak, to monitor the Black Hills for forest fires. The historic fire lookout tower built upon the remote summit remains as an abandoned shell and is open to the public. The primary building material used by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the mid-1930’s construction was native stone manually hauled the nearly four miles to the summit.

We passed through Oblivion, there are no signs to mark it … just the conductors word that it was there. There are many connotations to coming to Oblivion, but back in the rail’s hay day it was a true station point, closest to Addie Mine. It is also in this location where remnants of the narrow gauge wye remain.

The discovery of the Keystone Mine in 1891 by William Franklin, Thomas Blair, and Jacob Reed began the second phase in the development of Keystone. This was a rich mine, at one time producing as much as $2.50 in one pan of crushed ore. In 1892, the Keystone Mine opened a twenty stamp mill for the purpose of crushing the ore. In 1893 it was sold to a group from St. Paul called the Keystone Mining Company. The Keystone Mine was purchased by the Holy Terror Gold Mine in 1897. Mining did not stop with the Keystone Mine. On June 28, 1894, Franklin and his adopted daughter Cora Stone discovered gold at the base of Mt Aetna. This mine would become one of the richest in the country. The story of how it got its name is best told by Martha Linde. “They lived together in harmony until those occasions when William Franklin would feel the need to indulge his taste for strong liquor and would leave for a nearby town. At these times he remained absent until his wife, knowing from past experience where to look, would go in search of him. When she found the right saloon, there he would be, slightly under the weather, telling the other occupants tales of his wonderful mining prospects. Upon sighting William, his wife would rush in, grab him by the sleeve, and state in a loud and angry voice her opinion of his actions. He would always come along meekly, stating with a sheepish grin to bystanders, "Ain't she a Holy Terror?" After he found the phenomenally rich ore and his partner suggested he name the mine after his wife, it became not the Jennie, but the Holy Terror Gold Mine.”

We arrived in Keystone is style, 1880 style, aboard the 1880 Stram Engine Train. The only stoplight in the town of Keystone divides historic Keystone from its modern retail district, a mile-long stretch along US Hwy 16a. The Rushmore Borglum story is a museum that focuses on the lifetime work of Gutzon Borglum and his son Lincoln, both sculptures on Mt Rushmore.

Keystone is only 3 miles from the base of Mt Rushmore National Memorial. Keystone’s fate changed in 1927 when sculptor Gutzon Borglum began carving his massive American Monument. At its completion in 1941, almost 400,000 tourists came to see the famous carving and hundreds of millions have traveled to see it since. While only about 350 people are year round residents, in the summer months the numbers swell! Especially, when it is the first day of the Sturgis Rally!

We enjoyed lunch at Ruby House, in old western atmosphere, including the ruby wallpapered walls. The history of the Ruby House is one that has been handed down from generation to generation. As the story has been repeated, it has gained a few “characters” and has become a bit of urban legend.

In 1970 Mr Leo Toskin purchased the Sagdalen family home on Winter Street in addition to the Standard gas station that was next door. Leo got right to work and converted the house and gas station into a restaurant and saloon and named it “The Ruby House”. Business was just beginning to flourish when the devastating flood of June 9, 1972, demolished much of Keystone. The Ruby House was unsalvageable and had to be torn down. Although this was a devastating time for Keystone and the Black Hills, the devastation was much more personal for Leo, as both of his parents perished in Rapid City during the flood.

Determined to carry on, Leo used his strong will and determination and had The Ruby House and Red Garter Saloon rebuilt. The Ruby House quickly became a popular, thriving business. Leo took pride in adorning the walls with antiques and a large gun collection that took several years to acquire. To honor the spirit of the Sioux Indians, Leo set aside a special room to showcase Indian artifacts and crafts. He also dedicated a room to the great Sioux Chief, War Eagle, who was a leader known for his love of peace and ability to preserve harmony between dissimilar cultures.

In 1996, Steve and Linda Zwetzig, another family with very deep roots in the Keystone community, joined the “Ruby House” when they leased the restaurant from Leo while he continued running the Red Garter Saloon that is adjacent to the Ruby House. Unfortunately, the flood of ’72 was not the only devastation the Ruby House would face. Early in the morning of June 18, 2003, a fire started on the corner of Winter and Swanzy Street. Despite the hard work and efforts of the Keystone Fire Department and many fire departments from the surrounding area, the Ruby House could not be saved. The fire destroyed seven businesses that dreadful day. Fortunately, no lives were lost. Once again, Leo, along with Steve, Linda, and the Keystone community and many long-time employees and supporters got right to work and restored the buildings with fortitude. Less than a year later, on May 20, 2004, The Ruby House and Red Garter Saloon were reopened for business.

Many of the antiques and artifacts that were lost in the fire were irreplaceable. Including one of the country’s largest collection of Winchester rifles, antique period pistols, and an original Tiffany Lamp! The Zwetzig’s have spent numerous hours searching through antique stores, internet sites, and sending friends and family out to do the same to find items that will help create that special experience that will take their guests back in time.