Sunday, August 5, 2018

Day 39 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure – Saturday 8/4/18


We spent 6 nights at Rafter J Bar Ranch, 3 on our dime and 3 with the caravan. The time we spent exploring this area was perfect! When we left, we headed out on 16 & 385. The first town we hit was the city of Custer. It is the oldest city in the Black Hills.

Every year the main street of Custer SD is adorned with buffalo statues which various artists paint. They remain alone the street for the summer and then are auctioned off in the fall. These are some of the statues from this year.

Did I mention that we saw two of Pattye Starrett's favorite things ... a purple house that is home to an ice cream parlor! Bonus!

The 1881 Courthouse Museum is an American historical museum located in Custer, South Dakota. The museum is housed in the original Custer County Courthouse which served as a center for government in Custer County and the Dakota Territory from 1881 to 1973. In November 1972, the 3-story red-brick courthouse was designated a historic site by the U.S Department of Interior. Following completion of a new courthouse located across the street, the original building was given to the Custer County Historical Society in 1973. The 1881 Custer County Courthouse museum was opened on September 6, 1976, by the Custer Country Historical Society. The museum houses exhibits about the Lakota Native American culture, the 1874 expedition of George Custer, and the lives of Victorian-era settlers in the Black Hills and Dakota Territory.

The Four Mile Ghost Town, located exactly four miles west of Custer. It is one of the Black Hills last ghost towns. During the 1800s if a township was not given a name they were assigned numbers to help aid the stagecoaches, and that’s how the name Four Mile Town came to be.

As we drove, we could see piles of dead brush. We learned that is there is enough snow, this winter, those piles will be burned. The thinning is done to stop the Mountain Pine Beetle from jumping from tree to tree and to give more room to other trees to grow.

If you follow my blogs, you know how much I love unique "crossing" signs ... well you can add another one to the list ... I think this tops the peafowl crossing sign!

We passed acres upon acres that were left bare from a fire, just charred tree trunks remain. The underbrush has started to grow back, but there is no trees yet! It is a very slow process to grow the forest back. August of 2000 an enormous wildfire started just west of Jewel Cave. Named the Jasper Fire, it burned a total of 83,508 acres in the southern Black Hills and approximately 90% of the land area of Jewel Cave National Monument. Due to the hot, dry conditions and an abundance of fuel on the forest floor, the fire spread quickly and with severe intensity. In just the first day, the fire consumed an average of about seven football fields of forest per minute.

Saw a sign that indicated that we are leaving the Black Hills National Forest. We have seen these signs before, as we weaved in and out of the forest, but I believe we really are leaving this time.

We left South Dakota and entered Wyoming. It is the 10th largest by area, the least populous and the second least densely populated state in the country. Wyoming is bordered by Montana, South Dakota, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, and Idaho.

In Wyoming we saw oil pumpers, also called donkeys. Wyoming ranks eighth nationally in crude oil production. Last year they produced 75.6 million barrels of crude oil. The Mike Murphy #1 well was the first oil well drilled in Wyoming. It was drilled in 1884 next to a natural oil seep and was the discovery well for the Dallas field, which is still an active oil field today. Salt Creek field is the most prolific oil field in Wyoming. In 2017, it produced more than 4.1 million barrels. Since its 1889 discovery, Salt Creek field has produced more than 715 million barrels of oil, with an estimated 1.8 billion barrels still remaining in reserve.

The first refinery in Wyoming was built in Casper and began processing crude oil in 1895. It had an initial capacity of 50–100 barrels of oil per day. In comparison, Casper’s existing Little America refinery has a total operable capacity of 25,500 barrels per stream day. Horizontal wells now account for 87 percent of all new oil and gas wells drilled in the United States. In 2017, 88 percent of the approved oil and gas permits in Wyoming were for horizontal wells.

In Newcastle Wyoming, we turned onto US 85 N. Our first rest stop was at the Salt Creek Overlook. Below us are Salt and Beaver creeks where the bur oak grows. Above the valley floor, Ponderosa pine and aspen groves cling to the limestone cliffs, clay soil and red sandstone. History, geology and wildlife are alive and well in the Salt Creek Valley. The Sioux believed the Great Spirit lived in these hills. Pioneers came here to mine for coal and oil. Small towns, like nearby Cambria, sprang up as fast as they were deserted. Tales of gunfights, stage robberies and gambling are kept alive by those who never left.


White-tailed deer roam through the pines and aspens. Wild turkeys scratch through leaves and needles along the creek bottoms, in search of acorns and seeds. Brought here from New Mexico in 1948, turkeys are now the most widespread game bird in northeastern Wyoming. These shy, elusive birds don’t let humans get too close. At night, they roost in treetops and return to the ground at daybreak to forage. Watch closely and you could see one of these magnificent birds!


It is amazing how Rod can fit us all in, with a bunch of motorcycles there already!

In the early 1920’s, the Cambria Fuel Company recognized the need to have an appropriate facility to host company events, as well as be suitable and accessible to the community to hold meetings and gatherings in a park-like setting.  The inside of the building would be spacious and accommodating for every need. The outside amenities would be made to hold company and community picnics and other events.  Hence, the original name was given and known by as the “Cambria Casino Park”. 

Vision became reality when construction started in 1923 for the new facility, and five years later it was completed in 1928, at a cost of $250,000.  The facility was built in a European Tudor style, replete with custom stone walls supplied from local quarries.  Shortly after the completion of the building, two major events occurred that changed the course of its future history.  First, was the closing of the Cambria Fuel Company and the coal mine, and in 1929, was the crash of the stock market.  The Great Depression had begun… The Cambria Fuel Company’s property was sold off in pieces.  The property originally known as the Cambria Casino Park was sold and eventually through the years, the property was acquired by the Napolitano family and has been in the family ever since. 

They get that white stuff in the winters up here. I am told winter can last 8 months … so, they keep their snow fences up all year. They look much sturdier than the ones that go up and come down every year in NY!

Four Corners is a small unincorporated town in northeastern Wyoming, at the intersection of US Route 85 and Wyoming Hwy 585. Originally a stage station on the famous stagecoach road connecting Cheyenne and the Union Pacific Railroad with the gold fields of Deadwood. Today it looks pretty abandoned, but maybe a small store and post office serving nearby ranches, vacation homes, and tourist camps.

Our first glimpse of Devils Tower was from 20 miles away as the crow flies, it is truly an impressive structure.

As we arrived at Devils Tower KOA, we were greeted by the "dawn patrol." 

The dawn patrol are fellow caravanners that volunteer to go ahead of the group and help get the gaggle of RVs off the road and into sites. 



We were assigned a spot in the first row, making the view of Devils Tower spectacular and uninterrupted! It was hot, hot when we arrived, so we got set up and took shelter under the large oak tree next to our site. We enjoyed the view of the tower and the breezes that blew. The line to get into Devils Tower was long all day, we are told that it gets better around 5 pm.

We decide to head up to Devils Tower around five o’clock. Located in the northeast corner of Wyoming, it is the country's first national monument. It was established in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt. It is a towering butte that is made up of igneous rocks. Devils Tower is a jaw-dropping geological feature that rises almost 900 feet above Wyoming's rolling prairies.

While Devils Tower National Monument garnered significant attention as the backdrop in Close Encounters of the Third Kind, the tower is sacred to many Northern Plains Indian tribes, as well as the Kiowa Tribe, who made their homes in the Black Hills region. With oral storytelling and a history that dates back thousands of years, today American Indian tribes continue to hold sacred ceremonies at the tower. Like many significant sites in the area, its name has a story. Native Americans have several names for the butte, including Bear’s House and the Great Gray Horn. The name Devils Tower came from a mistaken translation of a conversation with a Native speaker during an 1875 military expedition.

While the Tower is a favorite climbing spot, attracting hundreds of climbers each summer, however several Plains Indian tribes consider climbing a desecration of a sacred place. Therefore, most climbers honor a voluntary climbing ban during the month of June each year. It is during that time when Native ceremonies are conducted around the breathtaking landmark. Personal and group ceremonies, like Sweat lodges, sun dances, and others are still practiced at the monument today. The most common ritual that takes place at the Tower are prayer offerings. Colorful cloths or bundles are placed near the Tower, commonly seen along the park's trails, and represent a personal connection to the site. They are similar to ceremonial objects from other religions, and may represent a person making an offering, a request, or simply in remembrance of a person or place.

Back to the climbers, we saw them on three sides of the Tower. The first recorded climb of Devils Tower occurred over ten years before its establishment as a national monument. Willard Ripley and William Rogers were two ranchers living near the Tower in the 1890s. Working together, the two managed to construct a simple stake ladder which they used to climb to the Tower's summit. As years went on an untold number of people used it to scale the Tower columns. But by the 1920s the ladder was in a state of serious disrepair. The bottom section has since been removed, with the top 200 feet restored by the park service in 1972. Visitors today can still see the old stake ladder - it is visible with the naked eye, but more easily spotted with binoculars or a good camera zoom.

The ladder marks the beginning of a long history of climbing at Devils Tower. Although it was used by others after its construction, only a handful of stories survive. In 1937, a group of rock climbers sought to make history by scaling the sides without the use of a ladder. They would start a new tradition of climbing that still exists to this day.

Prior to 1937, rock climbing was evolving as a sport in several places around Europe. Fritz Wiessner was a German-American climber and member of the American Alpine Club (based in New York). Climbing with Lawrence Coveney and William House, Wiessner led the trio in the first free climb of Devils Tower. Wiessner helped set the standard of rock climbing at the Tower, and his name is still attached to the route he and his cohorts pioneered in 1937.

The following year, Jack Durrance began the second expedition up the Tower columns. He studied the route Wiessner used the year before, and determined there could be a slightly easier option. What became known as the "Durrance Route" is today the most popular climbing route on the Tower. Considered by many to be the least difficult route, it still provides a challenge to experienced climbers scaling the Tower for their first time. Within a few years, Durrance would return to the Tower to climb it again. This next expedition would not be for recreation, however: Jack Durrance was leading a rescue mission.

Throughout 1941, the eyes of the nation were fixed on the next "Great War." Europe and Asia were in turmoil, and many knew it was only a matter of time before the United States joined the fray. However the attention of the American people, and indeed those around the world, would be diverted for a short time in October 1941. The story of George Hopkins captivated people across the globe. A man had gotten himself stuck on the top of Devils Tower. How he got up there, why he could not get down, and what was being done to rescue him were conversation topics around many dinner tables. 

The parachutist drew a lot of attention to a little national monument in northeast Wyoming. In the end, Jack Durrance led a part of eight climbers to the summit to bring Hopkins down after being stranded for six days. We met a group of three climbers that had scaled the Tower, it only took them 11 hours!

No matter what your reason for your visit or what is most inspiring to you, there is something for everyone to enjoy. Nancy and I enjoyed being as close to it as legally possible, without getting a permit to climb it! We took the short 1.3 mile loop around the base of it. 

This allowed us to capture pictures from all sides and also to see our RV at the Devils Tower KOA. Our rig is in the first row, right next to the tree in the center of the picture. 









We told our husbands we were only going up for a closer look and we started walking and we were not sure how far around we were … so, we kept pushing forward, thinking it might be shorter than turning around. Oh, were we wrong … 39 minutes later we finished the 1.3 mile loop! But, we got some awesome pictures!

On our way out of the park, we stopped at Prairie Dog town, they are just too cute! The prairie dog town at Devils Tower is found in the floodplain along the main park road, just past the entrance. It is distinctive for the dirt mounds which the animals construct, and the low vegetation that is clipped for improved colony safety.

Prairie dogs build up large stores of body fat to carry them through the fall and winter months. Unlike most other members of their family, black-tailed prairie dogs do not hibernate. They may remain underground for several days during periods of harsh weather, but a return to milder winter conditions will find their towns bustling with activity.

Plump prairie dogs are an important component of the diet of many animals. Badgers, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, golden eagles and various hawks all take their toll; rattlesnakes and bull snakes occasionally prey on the young. Prairie dogs rely on their excellent hearing and vision to avoid these predators. From their vantage point atop the burrow mound, they can listen and scan the sky and prairie for danger. Upon spotting an enemy and announcing its presence to the rest of the town, the prairie dog dives into its burrow, emerging to give an "all clear" call when the danger has passed.


Prairie dogs warn of territorial trespassers from adjacent coteries or approaching danger by emitting a series of "barks," which sound more like high-pitched squeaks. Specific threats are associated with distinctive vocalization patterns that serve to alert all residents of a town to the common threat. Prairie dogs spend about half of their lives above ground. We could hear them making all kinds of sounds … not sure if they are announcing our arrival or warning others we are dangerous! When we left, I thought I could hear them giving the “all clear” sign. 


An excellent view, as we left the park!













Another awesome day with Yankee RV Caravan Northwest Expedition.



No comments:

Post a Comment