Two Lane Adventures: Day 59 of 117 on our “Go West, Young Man” Two Lane Adventure

We departed Jellystone Campground in Missoula, it was a hazy morning.

Just 4 miles north of Missoula, we came into Evaro on the southern tip of the Flathead Indian Reservation. Evaro Hill on Highway 93 is a stretch of road that steadily climbs from the Missoula valley to Evaro and serves as a local landmark. The Flathead Indian Reservation is home to three tribes, the Bitterroot Salish, Upper Pend d'Oreille, and the Kootenai. "Confederated Salish" refers to both the Salish and Pend d'Oreille tribes and extends between Missoula and Kalispell, with fertile valleys and towering mountain peaks surrounding the 1.2 million acre reservation.

What is up with all the casinos in Montana? In the early 70s, the legislature approved Bingo as a form of legal gambling, and then video Keno as a form of live Bingo. Then, in the mid-80s, the legislature approved video poker machines to go along with the video keno machines, they allowed 5 video poker machines and unlimited video keno machines, per liquor license. In one year, the state issued just under 3,000 video poker licenses. Around the same time, Montana also approved the Montana State Lottery. Because of the fee revenue on these video poker machines, the legislature lifted the restriction in the early 90s on those video poker machines, to 20, per license.

The People's Way, otherwise known as US Highway 93 as it passes through the Flathead Indian Reservation, very much caters to critters, it appears. The most visible animal crossing is the animal bridge over US 93. The $1.88 million overpass north of Evaro is another story, a 26-foot-high and 200-foot-long tunnel was constructed where only air existed to let animals in these parts walk over the highway instead of under it. But, there are actually 41 wildlife crossings between Evaro and Polson. 40 of the crossings on this 56-mile stretch of US 93 run below the highway, mostly in the form of culverts, or under bridges designed to give animals room to pass without stepping on pavement. Drivers don't even notice the majority of the wildlife crossings. The goal of the crossings, of course, is to reduce the number of animal-vehicle collisions, which take a toll not only on the wildlife population, but cause more than $1 billion in automotive damages in the US each year.

The town of Arlee is named after the Salish chief "Alee" and sitting in the shadow of the Mission Mountains. Arlee serves as a trading center for residents of the Jocko Valley and Flathead Indian Reservation. Arlee is home to beloved local shops and galleries, and area highlights include the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas. Rounding out the town's offerings are annual events like the Let'R Buck PRCA Rodeo and the Arlee Celebration Pow Wow. You can tell that we are on the Indian Reservation, because all the signs are in two languages.

Just off US 93 in Arlee, in the Jocko Valley, is the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas. It is being created through the visionary guidance of Gochen Tulku Sang-ngag Rinpoche, an incarnate Tibetan Buddhist lama. Nestled in a peaceful valley in the land of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Reservation, the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas aligns positive properties of the physical world in a sacred architectural arrangement based on the eight-spoked Dharma wheel. This symbol evokes the turning or awakening of the enlightened qualities of altruism and wisdom. The purpose of the Garden is to bring about positive transformation within those who visit, in response to the negativity that abounds in the world today. One thousand hand-cast Buddha statues are arrayed around the central figure of Yum Chenmo, or the Great Mother, the manifestation of the perfection of wisdom. One thousand stupas, representations of the enlightened mind, line the outer circle. Each enshrine an image of the female deity, Tara. Elegantly adorned with native trees and flowers, it is hoped that the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas will instill lasting impressions of peacefulness and compassion.

Ravalli is located at the junction of U.S. Route 93 and Montana Highway 200, at the bottom of a big hill near the National Bison Range. However … we did not see any buffalo. Year-round, the National Bison Range offers the opportunity to view 500 bison roaming on natural grassland, along with elk, bighorn sheep, antelope and deer on self-guided auto tours. At one time Charlie Allard, the country's leading expert on breeding bison, owned the country's largest herd of buffalo in Ravalli, Montana.

The smoke from the fires in the area is starting to be “seen” more, the mountain view should be clear this time of day, but all you can see is the “fog.” The United States Congress designated the Mission Mountains Wilderness in 1975, it is now has a total of almost 75,000 acres. All of this wilderness is located in Montana and is managed by the Forest Service. The Mission Mountains are a land of ragged peaks with snow on them most of the year, small active glaciers, alpine lakes, meadows, clear streams that run icy cold, slab-like boulders, vertical cliff faces, and talus slopes. The average elevation is 7,000 feet. In the northern portion you'll find the terrain less severe and more heavily timbered. The southern portion, however, receives more visitors, primarily around the alpine lakes (most of which do not thaw until mid-June). In summer high basins are painted with a sea of wildflowers. The first organized exploration of this area did not occur until 1922, after which part of the region was set aside as the Mission Mountains Primitive Area in 1931 and then expanded in 1939.

Rich in history and native culture, the small town of St. Ignatius on the Flathead Indian Reservation offers beautiful views of the Mission Valley. The St. Ignatius Mission was built in the early 1890's. This Catholic Church is unique because its walls and ceilings have 58 original paintings by Brother Joseph Carignano on them. The Mission Mountain Range is a beautiful backdrop of scenery behind the Mission Church. There are two very special paintings of the Salish Lord and Lord's mother (in Native American form) that are located in the back of the Mission. Next to the Mission, there are the log home which was the original Sisters' residence when they first arrived.

The 3,880 acres of the wildlife management area is located on the westside of the Ninepipe Reservoir National Wildlife Refuge, which is in the Flathead Indian Reservation. This exceptional wetland complex contains over 800 glacial potholes and a 1,770-acre reservoir. The rolling hills, open grasslands, lake, and numerous kettle ponds provide habitat for upland game birds, waterfowl, and other non-game species. About 200 bird species have been recorded, including nesting great blue herons and double-crested cormorants.

Carrying a hearty legacy, Pablo was named for tribal member Michel Pablo, a rancher and stockman who played a role in saving the bison of Montana from extinction. Headquarters for the Flathead Indian Reservation, Pablo is home to Salish Kootenai College. It features a nine-hole golf course and a tribally operated museum that shares the history of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. Established a bit later than most other towns in the region, Pablo came to life in 1917, with the coming of a branch line of the Northern Pacific Railway. Its location in an agricultural area is betrayed by the presence of a pair of grain elevators which still stand. Both now graffiti covered, they appear to have fallen into disuse. The other two most noticeable structures in the town would be the town water tower and the pedestrian bridge.

The bridge, a very long steel truss bridge, spans the four lane divided Highway 93 at the south end of the Salish Kootenai College, a tribal college with an enrollment of about 1,200 located on the Flathead Indian Reservation, as is Pablo itself. While the college is at the east end of the bridge, the headquarters of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Reservation is off the west end. Officially opened in July of 2011, the $3 million dollar bridge was built in a single span of 265 feet in length, supported by stone faced concrete piers, with a pair of 60 foot tall steel tipi structures at each end.

We transitioned onto Montana Route 35. This route skirts around the east side of Flathead Lake, from Polson to Bigfork. Flathead Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi in the lower 48 states, with over 200 square miles of water and 185 miles of shoreline. The southern half of Flathead Lake is within the boundary of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes Flathead Reservation. Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks maintains thirteen public access sites around the lake.

One of Montana’s most unique roadside landscapes, the orchard stands that sell Flathead cherries during the summer months. There isn’t really a Flathead cherry … the name comes from the lake region. Especially the east side of the lake that has proven perfect for growing the sweet treat. Harry Chapman started the first orchard here around the turn of the 20th century. There were ample orchards of cherries, apples and other fruits. The roadside stands along the east shore were open, but no room for 14 RVs to pull off!

We followed Montana Route 206 for a while, then we turned onto US 2E and followed the south Fork of Flathead River. The South Fork of the Flathead River begins deep in the heart of Bob Marshall Wilderness complex, one of the nation’s largest designated wilderness areas, more than 1.5 million acres. Due to the fact that the South Fork of the Flathead River starts deep in the wilderness area and flows for more than 40 miles through the heart of the complex.

After traveling more than 40 miles, the South Fork finally leaves the protected wilderness area, and begins to follow the reservoir roads for another 20 miles until spilling into the Hungry Horse Reservoir. The reservoir is more than 50 miles long, created by the 460-foot Hungry Horse Dam. Below the dam, the South Fork flows for 5 miles before entering the Flathead River just downstream from the town of Hungry Horse. This is where we crossed the river.