On Monday June 19, 2017, we departed Triple Falls
Campground and started our back tracking on Highway 430, along the west coast
of Newfoundland.
The melting snow was creating steam, as it
evaporated, in this warmer weather. It is a sight we have not seen before!
We prayed for good travel weather with no wind. No
one was listening, it was overcast, drizzling, with low hanging clouds and
windy. Heading back the way we came, the time seems to go by more quickly.
It is amazing how the terrain can change form wooded areas to barren rocky ground in the blink of an eye.
We were through the forested area and back along the
coast more quickly! Where the wind picks up and throws your RV around. Driving on
the ocean side road, Charlie had to strain to keep the steering wheel from
flying out of his hands.
Our wagon master had us track our distance from the
front to the back of the caravan. He selected a land mark and we all watched
our odometers climb. When the tail-ender came to that same landmark, it was
determined that 16 rigs covered just over 2 miles of highway.
The Town of
Anchor Point on the Great Northern Peninsula is the oldest English settlement
in the area settled around 1740, by Robert Bartlett and his nephew Bob Genge
from Somerset, England. It was settled
due to the rich fishing, sealing and trapping resources, where residents set-up
winter housing at Deep Cove (now a national historic site). Today the community
remains the key employer in the Straits from Eddies Cove East to Anchor Point,
given the presence of a secondary shrimp processing facility, numerous fishing
enterprises and services related to this industry.
Deep Cove Wintering Site on the Great Northern
Peninsula is a wonderful place to visit. During summer, the settlers of Anchor
Point had taken up an abundance of activity that surrounded the sea, as the
rich waters could be viewed from any resident window. However, during winter
the families moved inland to smaller homes they built in Deep Cove just a few
kilometers to the south. Some shared houses with other families. This enclosed
site provided to be more efficient and protected the settlers from the elements
and harsh conditions in rural Newfoundland during the 19th and into the 20th
century. Settlers would move back to their permanent homes in Anchor Point
after winter. Deep Cove is noted as the last inhabited winter housing site in Newfoundland.
A beautiful board walk and walking trail leads you to the site. As you walk
where past residents before you walked there are interpretative panels noting
the history of the community, how houses were built, what residents did for
fun, the role of education/religion/man/woman and explanation of several
structures and necessities. In 2012, funding aided with the development of
adding miniature replica houses and structures along the board walk.
We saw a Caribou standing on the right side of the
road, on a short ridge, just looking at us. Look closely at the picture to see
him or her. Canada is home to over 2 million caribou, medium-sized members of
the deer family, which includes four other native deer species: moose, elk,
white-tailed deer, and mule deer. The word “caribou” is believed to be derived
from the Mi’kmaq word “xalibu” meaning “the one who paws.” All deer have cloven-hooved
and are cud-chewing animals, but unlike other deer species, both male and female
caribou have antlers. Caribou are well adapted to their environment, their
bodies are short and stocky to conserve heat, with long legs to help move
through deep snow. Long, dense winter coats insulate against cold temperatures
and high winds, and muzzles and tails are short and hairy. A mature bull can weigh
anywhere from 350 to 500 pounds.
The Torrent River runs hundreds of miles from the
western slopes of the Long Range Mountains to the sheltered shores of
Ingornachoix Bay. The Torrent River is a haven for Atlantic salmon. This is
where they come in abundance to spawn. Eggs will hatch and develop before their
long journey across the Atlantic Ocean, and return to the Torrent River to
continue their life cycle.
The Torrent River Nature Park and Visitor Information
Center is located at the mouth of the powerful Torrent River. The Interpretation
Center is a unique, Salmon-shaped facility, it was completed in 2006 and is
proudly owned and operated by the resourceful people of Hawke’s Bay. Here you
can uncover the history of Hawkes Bay and the evolving relationship forged
between the Town and the river that runs through it. Discover the story of the
Atlantic salmon: a local, global and sometimes confounding tale of progress,
pollution, politics, greed, ignorance, apathy and, above all, hope.
In 1768, Captain Cook surveyed the coast of
Newfoundland, and on his map Parsons Pond is called Sandy Bay. Rev. Isaac
Parsons visited there in his schooner and gave the community its present name. Today
a number of families have the surname Parsons, likely descendants of Bill
Parsons formally of Trout River, and his wife, Caroline Francis, who were early
settlers there. Parsons Pond is a community with an interesting history of oil
exploration. Through the 1800's there were several wells and basic refining
operations. The original well sites and hardware can still be seen on the
western side of Parsons Pond. The provincial energy company, Nalcor, in
partnership with others, has purchased the onshore exploration rights. Nalcor
began drilling 3 sites in February 2010; results to date were limited and the
company is not considering additional drilling at this time. Nalcor is
continuing to look at the potential of offshore drilling in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence region. In the summer time the Town Council and the Parsons Pond
Recreation Committee always facilitate a great week-long festival, "The
Parsons Pond Festival".
We saw this sign, we have seen many of these signs
along our travels. But every time you see a sign like this, you get a bit more
vigilant.
We got the closest to a Moose … closer than we really
ever wanted to!
A Mama Moose and her baby popped out on the right side
of the road and crossed right in front of us on the road!
We arrived at Gros Morne campground for our overnight stop
just after 1pm. We had time to set up and then were are taking a driving tour
of Racky Harbor and Gros Morne National Park.
Driving north, Wiltondale, is the gateway to Gros
Morne National Park, driving south, Rocky Harbor is the gateway. With its
fjords, mountains and spectacular ocean scenery, Gros Morne offers unexcelled
opportunities for outdoor activities and sightseeing. Perhaps the best way to
put Gros Morne National Park into perspective is to say that it's a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. That designation puts it on par with such natural wonders
as Australia's Great Barrier Reef. Ancient glacial scraping and erosion formed
the breathtaking landscape that makes this a paradise for the outdoor
enthusiast and camper. Trail hiking, rock climbing, sightseeing, boating,
swimming, camping and fishing are just some of the recreational activities on
offer. The Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park offer a view unlike any
other. Driving from Woody Point to Trout River, the landscape changes
dramatically, where the usual green vegetation is chipped away and a
desert-like gorge appears. The rocks here, peridotite, were once part of the
Earth’s mantle. They were forced to the Earth’s surface during tectonic plate
collision hundreds of millions of years ago. Gros Morne Mountain is 2,644 feet
in elevation and the centerpiece of this UNESCO site.
After Gros Morne, we stopped at the Norris Point Lookout and
Jenniex Heritage House. This provides a spectacular view over Bonne Bay and
across to the Tablelands.
Besides the spectaucular foggy views, the tulip gardens were
in full bloom!
In Rocky Harbor, they have found arrowheads in the Salmon
Point area, indicating that the Micmac Indian once inhabited the area. Then
came the fishermen from England and France, some of whom eventually stayed all
year round. As early as 1809, it is recorded that Mr. John Paine and his wife
Sarah lived in Rocky Harbour Cove followed by the Youngs'. This fishing
village, run by English Merchants, grew rapidly. Fishing during the summer and
logging during the winter were the main industries. People grew their own
vegetables, cured fish, preserved local berries and raised animals for food,
clothing and for work. Woody Point was the "Commercial Center" of the
area at that time and, everyone went there for the essentials, which they could
not produce themselves. Everyone was busy and the village prospered.
We enjoyed a quiet night in our three service campground.
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